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Sana Shah on New York City

Since leaving home for university in 2004, I have been leading a somewhat nomadic life. First I left Lahore for Toronto, then four years later I moved back to Lahore, only to move back to Toronto a year later. After living and working in Toronto for another two years I once again moved to Lahore with the intention of living there permanently — only to find myself on a plane once again, a year later, married and moving to New York City “for good.” Today, while writing this, I am in the middle of another big move, this time to London, and I am told it is “permanent.” I have learned to take that word with a pinch of salt.

When I was leaving Lahore two years ago, I was quite sad: sad to be leaving my family and my friends, the comforts and familiarity of home. At the same time, I was comforted by the fact that I would always have a connection with Lahore, the place where I grew up and where my entire family still lives. When I was leaving Toronto, it was with an entirely different set of feelings. As much as I loved Toronto and the glittering memories it gave me, I was ready for the next chapter in my life. Today, as I sit in my Manhattan living room, surrounded with boxes, listening to the sounds of the city, I am not quite sure if I am ready to bid New York City farewell. As excited as I am for London — another beautiful city with its own charm — New York has forever carved a special place in my heart.

I have long conversations with my Bengali grocer on the merits of a Pakistani mango versus the Indian Alfonso,
all in Urdu

I viscerally understand the fascination with New York: from Hollywood portrayals of MacCaulay Culkin running around in the Plaza, to Sarah Jessica Parker prancing about in 6-inch Manolo Blahniks, to our favorite group of “Friends” sitting around in a café all day (That never happens, by the way. Nobody in this city has that much time for their friends). There is the glitz, glamour, and intrigue surrounding the rich and famous inhabitants of the Upper East Side as portrayed in Gossip Girl. The beauty of New York is that while some accounts may be a tad exaggerated, they all hold true in some respects. The city is that diverse. Walk down Park Avenue and you will most likely run into the Vanderbilts and Waldorfs shown on Gossip Girl. Roam around Midtown or Wall Street and you will probably find many men who resemble Patrick Bateman (the fictional anti-hero of American Psycho). There are plenty of waspy Charlotte types floating along Madison Avenue on the Upper East Side.

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Biking by the river — Sana, Deena, Anum & Hasnain
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Sana and Mustafa on a friends birthday cruise, March 2014
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Some very heavy reading & a strong cappuccino from Birch Coffee
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The ever famous Magnolia Bakery
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Lunch with Asif at Columbia University
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Aneela, Khadijah, Sana, Zaydakbar & Hakkan in front of the 5th Ave Apple Store
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Zaydakbar & Hakkan at the Natural History Museum, Summer 2013

And this is what I love about New York: there is no quintessential “New Yorker” — a variety of people coexist and thrive in this unique American metropolis.

One thing must be said though. With the exception of Central Park, which is truly spectacular, some of the city sights as glorified by Hollywood are exactly the kind of places most people living here would avoid. Times Square, for example, is a nightmare, teeming with tourists and peddlers of all shapes and sizes, mediocre chain restaurants and tacky souvenir shops. There is the highly romanticized Empire State Building. I have to admit I pestered my husband to accompany me to the rooftop of this stately building. In hindsight, the crowds and the chaos are not worth the view or the experience. I would much rather experience the same views on a nice rooftop patio or bar in the summer, sipping on a cool drink, far from the madding crowd.

I will forever remember
my nephews’ first visit to New York and their
disappointment to find
the dinosaurs at the Natural History Museum were “just bones”

But one of the ways in which New York stole its way into my heart was via my stomach (naturally). New York City is heaven for those who are constantly searching for their next gastronomical adventure. I can’t think of a single cuisine that does not exist here and isn’t done to perfection (even the garam-masala-rich food of Lexington Avenue is sinfully delicious). Thai, Ethiopian, Chinese, Indian, Malay, Indonesian, Turkish, Persian — these can all be expected to be authentic, because immigrants from these countries actually live here, have their own grocery stores, butchers and restaurants. It never ceases to amaze me how I have long conversations with my Bengali grocer on the merits of a Pakistani mango versus the Indian Alfonso, all in Urdu, of course. Or the sheer number of Indian grannies clad in saris and chappals to be found at Saravanaa Bhavan (a South Indian restaurant in Murray Hill). After living in New York City, every other city seems too homogenous, too uniform, and too vanilla.

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Sana & Mustafa at the US Open 2012

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Sana’s birthday Surprise, June 2014
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View from Sana’s flat this winter
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Zaydakbar & Hakkan’s first time on the New York Subway, Summer 2013

It is with a heavy heart and grumbling tummy that I bid farewell to this crazy, beautiful, chaotic city. A city that gave me the most memorable first two years of my marriage and set the bar high in terms of the adventures I seek and expect from this world. I will miss dragging my husband for brunch every Sunday (brunch is considered serious business in New York and I wouldn’t be surprised if even the food trucks offer brunch specials). I will miss Sam my Asian hairdresser, whose sister apparently has the same hair as me and so nobody in this world knows or understands my hair the way he does. I will miss taking courses at Columbia and meeting up with my younger brother for lunch on campus. I will miss agonizing over my Gulf politics paper, with my husband having a meltdown, on the side, on my misuse of commas. I will forever remember my nephews’ first visit to New York and their disappointment to find the dinosaurs at the Natural History Museum were “just bones.” And I will miss the constant chatter on the streets, overhearing languages from all over the world.

I will miss Sam my Asian hairdresser, whose sister apparently has the same hair as me and so nobody in this world knows or understands my hair the way he does

I feel privileged to have been a part of this city’s chaos, even if for a short while. But the chaos will continue: afternoon teas will replace brunches, stranger accents will echo in my ears, the calm of West London will overtake the mad rush of Bowery and Houston. And just like that the New York minute will be a happy memory.

Kiran Chaudhry Amlani on the first glittering nights of 2014
Kiran & Riyaaz Amlani
Kiran & Riyaaz Amlani

Living in Lahore taught me how much fun ‘fancy dress’ parties can be. Lahoris need any excuse to don something extravagant and step out for a special occasion. So, the Lahori in me simply couldn’t resist bringing some of that outlandishness to laid-back Bombay. I decided to organize a surprise birthday party for my husband, Riyaaz.

The theme ‘Rockstars and Groupies’ struck a chord with me, not least because I had plenty of appropriate clothing options in my wardrobe to choose from — bright neon wigs, black fishnet gloves, red feather boas and corsets, among other items. I even managed to put together a crazy outfit for Riyaaz, by digging out one of his old biker jackets, workout gloves and a getting him a fake red mohawk wig from the party shop!

Suraiya Vaghani, Arshiya, Kiran & Mahves

New Year’s Eve in Sydney
New Year’s Eve in Sydney

Rahul surprised us all by booking a stretch Hummer Limo for the night, which to me looked like something Snoop Dogg would ride around in!

I have to admit I was a little unsure of whether our guests would make the effort to dress up. Bombay is notoriously laid back in this regard, and I remembered how some people had turned up to my wedding reception in Hawaiian shirts and Bermuda shorts. So, I really didn’t know what to expect. But when everyone turned up looking like they just walked out of a drag club in New York over Pride weekend, I was very impressed. Bombay has a wonderful spirit and it’s liberating to live in a place where people don’t take themselves too seriously. They do, however, take their partying very seriously: We ended up bringing most of the party home with us and staying up till the wee hours.

The best part of the evening was how many real rockstars turned up. There was Sona Mohapatra, the singing sensation, with her husband the music producer Ram Sampath; Vishal Dadlani, the man who wrote ‘Sheila ki Jawaani’; Ankit ‘Ankytrixx’, one of India’s top dance music DJs; sultry actress Shriya Saran and TV superstar Narayani Shastri; Shiraz Bhattacharya, drummer for band Pentagram and one of the most amazing musicians I have ever known, and his ‘former Miss India’ actress wife, Shonali Nagrani; the list was endless.

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At 'The Ivy' Rooftop Club on New Year’s Eve
At ‘The Ivy’ Rooftop Club on New Year’s Eve

Sometimes, as a female singer in Pakistan, I had felt like I was going against the grain of what society expected of me

Looking around that night, I remember thinking to myself that most people could have just turned up as themselves without violating the theme of the party — they really were rockstars. It also made me see how Bombay is full of creative people. It is such a blessing, as an artist, to be surrounded by other artists; by one’s own kind, in other words. Sometimes, as a female singer in Pakistan, I had felt like I was going against the grain of what society expected of me. While there were fans, there were also those who would discourage you. It can be exhausting to constantly swim against the stream. In India, and especially in Bombay, it’s a compliment to be considered slightly strange: an ambitious, creative person with big dreams. That’s probably why, when I first came to visit Bombay several years ago, I said to a friend, “I could live here in a heartbeat.” I had no idea that several years later it would actually happen.

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The morning after Riyaaz’s birthday party, with what seemed like a moment’s shut-eye, I dragged myself to the airport to catch a flight to Lahore. It was my friend Sameer Ahmed’s wedding. Naturally I had to be there. Sameer has broken many girls’ hearts in his time, being the mysterious, green-eyed bass player for several major bands, like Coven, Mauj, and the Mekaal Hassan Band. You can imagine my delight when I saw that he had finally met ‘the one’ in the lovely Kanwal Eshai. Seeing them together I realized that there really is someone out there for everyone; one ought to wait for the right person. The highlight of the wedding was a wild party thrown by all of Sameer’s musician buddies, with special performances by Club Caramel, Symt and EP among others.

Returning to Bombay, I had just enough time to change and get into party mode again for the launch of my husband’s latest restaurant in Bombay. The Smoke House Deli, Bandra launch party was a good excuse to reconnect with everyone. But, dear reader, before we could really catch our breath, we had to pack our bags again – this time for a much-needed two-week vacation in Australia.

Launch of Smoke House Deli — Bandra Kurla, Mumbai
Launch of Smoke House Deli — Bandra Kurla, Mumbai

The journey became magical with the car-roofs down and the summer breeze blowing through our hair along the most beautiful coastline I have ever seen

Riyaaz and I had decided that this time for the New Year, we would not go to Goa (like everyone else in India), but try to explore a country we had not experienced before, hence the unusual destination of the ‘land down under.’ The fact that it was peak summer there was a big deciding factor. We managed to persuade a few of Riyaaz’s close friends to join us and before we knew it, we were a party of seven including Mikhil and Gauri Narang, Jay and Padma Galla and my husband’s bestie Rahul Aggarwal.

We flew into Brisbane and drove to Surfer’s Paradise on the Gold Coast to soak up some sparkling summer sun. The evenings were spent strolling on the sea-front promenade that stretched for miles along pristine beaches. The nights were mostly spent in very loud Irish pubs. On the weekend we managed to get a VIP table at the popular ‘Club Liv,’ which turned into an unexpectedly fun night (mostly due to Rahul’s ordering of two bottles of a certain sherbet).

9 course degustacion dinner at the Tetsuya, in Sydney
9 course degustacion dinner at the Tetsuya, in Sydney

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Road trip to Sydney along the Gold Coast
Road trip to Sydney along the Gold Coast

Then, feeling very adventurous, we decided to hire some wheels to take a road trip down to Sydney. The boys got carried away with the hire cars and somehow we decided against the more practical SUVs we had originally planned for and ended up instead in Ferrari, Porsche and BMW convertibles! We obviously had no room in the boots of these cars for luggage, so the ingenious plan of sending our suitcases by air-freight was hatched. Boys really will be boys. Looking back, though, the journey became magical with the car-roofs down and the summer breeze blowing through our hair along the most beautiful coastline I have ever seen. We stopped at small towns along the way, like the very Bohemian Byron Bay and Coffs Harbour, and ended up in Sydney late into the night, exhausted and exhilarated from our drive.

The Sydney Harbour with its landmark Opera House makes for a spectacular evening stroll with its waterfront bars. The restaurants are also top-notch; in particular, the Opera House and ‘Tetsuya,’ an award-winning Japanese restaurant which served us a beastly nine-course menu over a five-hour meal. The Sydney fireworks on New Years Eve are a spectacle, so we wanted to make sure we had a good vantage point to observe those. Rahul surprised us all by booking a stretch Hummer Limo for the night, which to me looked more like something Snoop Dogg would ride around in. It certainly got a lot of attention from the ladies (which in all honesty had probably been Rahul’s intention!)

Dinner at the Opera House
Dinner at the Opera House

From Sydney, we made our way to Melbourne, which by far was my favorite part of Australia. The city has tons of character with lots of edgy, interesting watering holes, like the Carlton Club and rooftop bar amusingly-titled ‘Naked for Satan’! I also got to catch up with two friends, Sherry and Afra, whom I hadn’t seen in ages. Melbourne felt like a slice of home, not to mention the fact that almost every cab driver was from Lahore!

But the best part of the whole vacation, and the biggest insight gained from it all was in returning home to Bombay. Before this journey, I would often feel deflated at the end of a vacation; coming home felt like a downer after a good holiday. This time I realized, perhaps for the first time in my life, how good it was to come home to a place you love, especially a place that you share with someone you love.  

Jalal Salahuddin on a whirlwind tour of several foreign chefs in Pakistan

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Sitting on a beautiful terrace on a cool and crisp evening in Santa Rosa, California last September, I tasted a handmade tagliatelle dish with braised lamb ragout and had an epiphany. The food presented to us at Zazu, a well-known Sonoma Valley restaurant run by an incredible husband-and-wife team, represented the best of the area’s storied food tradition. The style of eating and drinking in Northern California is classic yet progressive, inventive and contemporary at the same time. Spending a month there was an education. The superb organic produce, the gorgeous vineyards and the talented chefs  from around the world who have settled there have created a mecca for foodies and epicurians which matches Tuscany and Burgundy. I began to think to myself: why can’t we have a more exciting culinary scene here in Pakistan? Although many new restaurants have opened up and people in the major cities have become more interested in food, we are still developing our restaurant culture and have not yet embraced a farm-to-table ethos (though perhaps in a strange way, Pakistan’s rural poor have). But organic brands are coming up and we still do eat fairly seasonally in Pakistan. This is a good sign and will be one of the building blocks of our evolving culinary culture.

Zazu, a well known Sonoma Valley restaurant
Zazu, a well known Sonoma Valley restaurant

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Twelve restaurants, three cities, three international chefs, one foreign illusionist, and a highly skilled Cuban Cigar Roller

Upon my return from California I got a call from a brand that was interested in bringing chefs from around the world to cook in Pakistani restaurants for a night each. We had done an event like this before with the master brand but this time the 7-Up Chefs Bonanza was to have three chefs cook in a series of restaurants in Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad. This was meant to give diners a novel experience in a restaurant they visit often. The culinary marathon was an exhilarating series of events: twelve restaurants, three cities, three international chefs, one foreign illusionist, and a highly skilled Cuban Cigar Roller, all in the span of three weeks!

I met and interacted with all sorts of people from around the globe, witnessed back-of-the-house of restaurants, talked to the restaurateurs and saw them mingle with international culinary gurus, ate exciting food, and last but not the least experienced the most exciting foreign entertainment in Pakistan.

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Laughter and applause emanated throughout the evening as guests were left baffled and delighted at the magician’s mind-bending tricks

It started off with a Michelin Star chef Guiliano Tassinari from Bologna, Italy, who presented out some fabulous Italian dishes such as risotto with green apples and balsamic reduction and handmade tagliatelle in a fresh tomato sauce. For the first few events it was difficult for him to work in the local kitchens due to a lack of equipment and unavailability of ingredients. But as the events proceeded, his menu showcased what true Italian recipes are all about. He got a chance to cook at the Chameleon at Royal Palm, Café Zouk Lahore, Tiramisu in Islamabad, and Café Koel and Montecristo in Karachi. Chef Fazil, an expert in East Asian and Oriental Cuisine, also showcased fabulous food options ranging from Pan Asian to Fusion cuisine at Café Zouk in Lahore, China Town Islamabad and Fuchsia in Karachi. Choices in soups to desserts were vast and tough to choose from as each dish sounded more delicious than the previous one. Everyone loves spicy Asian food here so dishes such as Fazil’s are always well-received. The Lebanese part of the event kicked off at Café Aylanto in Karachi. Amidst a cool breeze and candlelight, guests enjoyed a delectable four-course Lebanese menu prepared by international Chef Fadi el-Reweissati who has been the executive chef for many five-star hotels worldwide. He displayed his culinary expertise at the Café Aylanto Lahore & Karachi, Al-Majlis Islamabad and Polo Lounge Lahore and Islamabad. Anyone familiar with Lebanese cuisine or simply good food would’ve enjoyed the authentic selection of cold and hot Lebanese mezze which included a fresh vegetable platter, fatuoush, tabouleh, hummus, baba ganoush, moussaka, carrot mutable and homemade pita bread.

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All this while the Malaysian magician Rosen Roy kept guests entertained during their meals. Laughter and applause emanated throughout the evening as guests were left baffled and delighted at the magician’s mind-bending tricks. The restaurants were filled with warmth and chatter as people mingled with local celebrities and socialites.

Lastly, some evenings featured a fantastic female Cuban cigar roller. Having flown in from the Habanos factory in Cuba, Mercedes skillfully rolled fresh authentic Cuban Habanos cigars for the guests, right in front of their eyes. She is a skilled roller working at Habanos since 1982; she has obtained the 9th Category of Certification (the highest level among Cuban cigar rolling). There are a few things in the world that are known to be the best of their kind. A Havana cigar is one of them.

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Maram and Aabroo
share with GT the first edition of the M&A Diaries – tips on beauty and photography, as well as insider news from the world of fashion

This year been has been amazing for us as a company. We started 2013 with a project we have wanted to get off the ground for a long time, namely a state-of-the art salon in the heart of Lahore to cater to clients who have been pleading for a central second location in the city. After working out numbers and feasibility, we began scouting for locations. Not an easy task in the charming urban metropolis that is Lahore! The rates for some places we liked were astronomical; others were so tucked away that their reasonable prices didn’t cut it.

After two months, right when we were close to rethinking the endeavor, a friend called us recommending a location. Having had so many disappointments, we begrudgingly made our way across M.M.Alam Road, a stones throw away from Aabroo’s favourite restaurant, Zouk, and we landed up at what was to be our workplace for the foreseeable future. It was love at first sight. Excited, we called our close friends over to celebrate. In two months we had moved in.

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Fawad Khan

Shoots, shoots, and more shoots: this is what December to February usually looks like on our calendars. Lawn season — the most chaotic and terrifyingly exciting time for most designers — was also a busy one for us. One of our closest friends, Fahad Hussayn, launched his line of lawn for the first time, to much well-deserved praise. We did the styling for the remake of Armaan by Tarang.

Despite the wintery nights, locations all over the treacherous Murree hills, and the looming stress of a salon-under-construction—we managed to pull it all off! Maram closely supervised the looks for Aamina Sheikh and Pakistan’s favourite heartthrob, Fawad Khan.

Untitled-10 copyIn between moving into the new salon, we geared up for PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week where we had two days of hair and makeup for the four-day event.

About three weeks before the event, a flurry of meetings began with the production team (headed by the ever-inspiring HSY Aka Sheru) as well as the designers individually. Typically, the production team briefs us on what each fashion week entails: the number of designers per day, the ones showing their collections specifically on the day we are handling makeup, the backstage setup, the sponsor requirements, etc. After that, we sit down with the production folks and come up with the season’s makeup looks paying special attention to international trends, palettes, but also local skin tones and sensitivities. We meet each designer to see how these looks can be tweaked to match their needs, all the while keeping in mind the back-to-back nature of the shows, and the tight time-frame allotted to the models to change outfits.

The audience sees a seamless showcase of pomp and pageantry; backstage, meanwhile, is a nightmare (a polite phrase would be ‘controlled chaos’) with outfit changes at lightning speed, makeup (was it the winged-eyeliner look or smoky eyes? Ack!) hair suddenly tumbling out of buns, and accessories being changed in record time—sometimes in less than four minutes. Fashion Week starts with 9 am makeup-calls (which means setting your alarm to 7 AM, naturally), and an all-day sprint from station to station till about midnight. We honestly don’t know any other way to survive but in our most comfortable clothes and sneakers, which perhaps might explain why we have become somewhat infamous for our sneakers collection…

After fashion week, Aabroo winged her way to New York to be with her husband; her trip back would entail them packing up and moving to Pakistan for good. She had been travelling back and forth for years, and this year Aabroo and her husband decided to move permanently to Lahore. Maram: “I cannot imagine my life existing without Aabroo being constantly around as we have been through so much together, professionally and personally, for nearly two decades!”

‘The audience sees a seamless showcase of pomp and pageantry; backstage, meanwhile, is a nightmare (a polite phrase would be ‘controlled chaos’) with outfit changes at lightning speed, hair suddenly tumbling out of buns, and accessories being changed in record time—sometimes in less than four minutes’

This year we were lucky enough to be part of the weddings of two of our very close friends: Atif Aslam and Juggun Kazim. While we did their makeup for all the functions, we also did the still and video photography  for Atif’s event, which was hugely fun. A team of young photographers equipped with the latest DSLRs swarmed the space capturing a star-studded guest list including Alamgir, Ali Azmat, Manzar Sehbai, Meesha Shafi, Farhad Humayun, Shahid Afridi and many more.

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After the summer came PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week. We were asked to be the official makeup experts and artists on all three days. We lined up our forte of makeup for practically all the best bridal couture designers of the country. For their daily newsletter, they chose a designer each day with whom we would brainstorm individual looks according to their collections and our individual aesthetic. As luck would have it, it was our three favourite boys: HSY, The House of Kamiar Rokni and Fahad Hussayn. Along with the L’Oreal Paris team headed by Nubain Ali, we created “looks” that were also used for beautifully-designed makeup kits.

A team of young photographers equipped with the latest DSLRs swarmed the space capturing a star-studded
guest list

Porsche Pakistan recently started a celebrity shoot campaign where they pair known celebrities with their super hot cars. We decided to take a slightly different route than previously used in the campaign. We opted to shoot at the Porsche Pakistan’s garage to bring out the true beauty of the gleaming black Turbo S. The images turned out so well that we were asked to be the official photographers for the rest of the campaign.

‘I cannot imagine my life without Aabroo being constantly around as we have been through so much together, professionally and personally, for nearly two decades!’

At the end of November, for the Style 360 Pantene Bridal Couture Week, we were asked to present a makeup and hair presentation. Now this is what we love: a show where we get to do what we like. We chose outfits by Fahad Hussayn, jewelry by Shafaq Habib and asked HSY to direct as only he can do. Let’s see what you guys think of it when it hits the airwaves in a few weeks. The night was special for another reason too: we had our first billboard go up in Cantt. It feels incredible every time we drive by it.

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TIP for a bride-to-be:

Whilst on stage, sit with a straight face, back tall and chin up; that is the most flattering angle for any bride and completes the look. If you do not follow this rule your eye bags will show. Remember these pictures will only be taken once and last a lifetime!

Kiran Chaudhary Amlani on witnessing the happiness of two people in love

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Moving between India (where I now live) and Pakistan (where I still go back for work), I find myself constantly marveling at the opportunities that exist for cross-border collaborations in almost every field. Nowhere is this more obvious than in the realm of the aesthetic. Pakistan has a very refined sensibility in the creative space, whether its fashion, art or music.

We have seen how people all over the world love Coke Studio, how Sufi music is making waves worldwide, how New Yorkers flocked to see Imran Qureshi’s ‘Roof Garden’ commission at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Pakistani fashion designers have made headlines internationally, the most recent example being a fashion show in Paris this month by the likes of HSY, Kamiar Rokni, Mohsin Ali, Muse, and others. Our creative pioneers are finally getting much-deserved recognition at the highest levels.

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Although many Indians would still prefer to buy Indian masters, purely as an investment with an appreciating price tag, the fact that Pakistani art was of such high quality and so well-priced definitely made it an attractive proposition

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These are all great honours for a country that is otherwise weighed down by the fight against terrorism. But perhaps more importantly, they are good indicators of how Pakistan can re-brand itself. I remember growing up in a Pakistan that was a safe and happy place to live in; there was a sense of pride and dignity in who we were. If Pakistan is to regain some of its lost self-esteem, the biggest opportunity lies in the realm of the arts.

After the success of our multi-designer Pakistani fashion exhibition in Delhi in August, we decided to explore the art space as well. My husband Riyaaz’s business partner, Delhi-based Sid Mathur, and his beautiful wife Batasha Varma, had come to stay with us for a week or so in our seaside Bombay home. It proved to be a tremendously fruitful time, as we planned our very first art exhibition. It all began when they walked into my lounge and saw the Salman Farooqi abstract landscape on my wall. Both Batasha and Sid instantly fell in love with it (as most people do when they walk into my home). I then showed them some pamphlets from a gallery in Lahore showcasing some of the art coming out of Pakistan and they were both blown away. We decided that an exhibition in Delhi, featuring some of the best Pakistani art, would be a great idea. It just had to be done, if for nothing else than to show another narrative of what is happening in Pakistan right now.

I remember growing up in a Pakistan that was a safe and happy place to live in; there was a sense of pride and dignity in who we were. If Pakistan is to regain some of its lost self-esteem, the biggest opportunity lies in the realm of the arts

We decided to call the venture “Beyond Borders” and spent the next month or so sourcing some beautiful pieces from both India and Pakistan. The idea was to get the right people within the Delhi art circuit to come out through the lure of established Indian masters, and then to showcase some of the work coming out of Pakistan. Perhaps because the idea of an Indo-Pak art exhibition is so exciting for anyone in the art world on both sides, and also perhaps because artists and gallery owners are so supportive of each other generally, everyone was extremely helpful in making this happen.

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Sid’s uncle is a gallery owner and helped us source some big names from India like Viakuntam and K. Ravi. My friend Sanam Taseer, of the Taseer Art Gallery, was an angel and personally took me on an amazing tour of some of the best galleries in Lahore and also lent me some gems from her incredible personal collection (amazing work by Dua Abbas, Amna Manzoor, Imrana Tanveer, Annem Zaidi, Yasir Waqas and Tahir Ali Sadiq). My friend Avantika Sujan — who I call ‘cupid’ because she introduced me to my husband on that fateful 2011 trip to Bombay that would change my life — lent me some prize pieces by Komail Aijazuddin and Salman Toor. Mahnaz Sukhera of Collectors Galeria was also very helpful in sourcing some amazing pieces from Mashkoor, M. A. Bhatti and Farrukh Shahab. My talented artist friends, Salman Farooqi and his wonderful wife Shazia Salman sent us some of their most beautiful pieces. While Salman Farooqi and Mashkoor were the bestsellers in India, Annem Zaidi, Yasir Waqas, Imrana Tanveer and Dua Abbas were hugely appreciated too.

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All in all, despite the contemporary art scene in India being in a state of flux at this time, the exhibition was a big success. So many art collectors came out and expressed their excitement about the work coming out of Pakistan. Although many Indians would still prefer to buy Indian masters, purely as an investment with an appreciating price tag, the fact that Pakistani art was of such high quality and so well-priced definitely made it an attractive proposition. Naturally, the profile-building of Pakistani artists worldwide is critical, and already underway. It was heartening to see that in some small way, we had (quite literally) brought a beautiful piece of Pakistan to Delhi!

After all the work that always goes into an exhibition (making guest lists, inviting the right people, putting together the event, food and drinks) we were ready to let our hair down. As luck would have it, the wedding season had just begun and with several close friends of ours tying the knot, there was no lack of options to party.

The reason so many Indian girls have such amazing bodies is because they are usually on display. There is no way you can have anything less than a flat and toned mid-riff if you want to rock out in a ‘ghagara choli’

The exhibition wrapped up just in time for Hanisha Singh’s wedding to a lovely Parsi boy, Jamsheed Bhote. Hanisha is not only an amazing chef, but also Harmeet Bajaj’s niece (my partner in the Fashion business). She looked like she had stepped straight out of the 1920s and was every bit the ‘vintage’ Parsi princess in her gorgeous Sabyasachi saree and pearls. Suneet Varma, fashion designer extraordinaire, was also there and had all the family’s ladies looking fabulous in his creations.

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Next, Gauri Malhotra, one of my husband’s closest friends, also tied the knot with Mikhil Narang in a crazy, non-stop two-day wedding in Bombay at the amazing Taj Palace Hotel. Mikhil is another lovely Parsi guy who came back to India after several years in Paris, which gives him the rather attractive European suave that must surely have swept ‘G-Star’ (as Gauri is affectionately called) off her feet when they first met. He also, rather understandably, fell in love with this very sexy Punjabi girl who has the body of a goddess and a brain for business, being one of Bombay’s top PR ‘go-to’ girls. The two of them are so obviously in love that it was a treat to be part of this most intimate of nuptials.

During the reception, Mikhil’s aunt, a very dignified and well-spoken Parsi lady, spoke to me at length about how she longed to visit her own aunt in Karachi some day. She was worried that she might pass away before she would get a chance to see her again. When I promised to help with her visa, the excitement and gratitude that followed made me realize how tough it is, even for family, to connect with their loved ones across this most arbitrary of boundaries we call a border.

With these thoughts in my mind, I was easily distracted as everyone took to the floor for some rather crazy Bollywood dancing. I marveled at how absolutely gorgeous (and physically fit) Gauri looked in her tiny choli and low-cut lehnga. No doubt the reason so many Indian girls have such amazing bodies is because they are usually on display. There is no way you can have anything less than a flat and toned mid-riff if you want to rock out in a ‘ghagara choli’ which is usually the outfit of choice for girls at a Sangeet or Mehndi.

Just when I thought we were all partied out, we got the chance to relax in the most romantic setting imaginable for a wedding — Goa. Nadia and Varun’s amazing three-day wedding, set on the sprawling lawns of the Taj Vivanta in Candolim, was a truly magical experience. Varun is one of Riyaaz’s oldest friends, and it was quite the ‘old school reunion’ for the boys with the usual hilarious antics and anecdotes that only really old friends can share. Days were spent by the pool; the evenings were started with sundowners by the beach.

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The first night we had an amazing Greek dinner at the fabulous restaurant Thalassa which became a mad ‘plate-throwing’ and dancing fiasco by the end (thanks to someone who decided to walk around with a tray of shots). The following day after the Mehndi, my husband got the party started at the Sangeet with his wicked dance moves, for which I suspect he is getting quite a reputation in both countries now.

The next evening was the Hindu marriage ceremony — soulful and magical. When I saw Varun and Nadia doing the ‘pheras’ around a fire, I could feel their bond, and I knew they were soul mates. Nadia was the love of Varun’s life (he has known her since college), but he was able to marry her only after waiting for many long years. When you meet Nadia it is easy to see why Varun would have fallen for her, and why he waited for her as long as he did. She is such a beautiful woman — strong, deeply spiritual, affectionate, drop-dead gorgeous and yet so down-to-earth.

I was left with a warm fuzzy feeling after all these weddings.  It is truly a joy to share the happiness of two people in love, uniting forever. But I have to say, when you throw in a beach, a pool and some sundowners it gets much, much better…

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Jalal Salahuddin traces the history of the modern Pakistani wedding

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gd2Perhaps it was fate or simply an accident that got me into the event managing business. Luck came in the form of a new year’s eve party that most of my friends were too lazy, or disinterested in, to organise. I wasn’t and thus J&S was born. I left the boring and staid world of banking to pursue a career in something more exciting and creative: design, fashion and the opulent world of restaurants.

But that’s not exactly true. Twelve years on I’ve been involved with so many other projects and creative pursuits—some successful and some not—that I never thought I’d be doing. One of them has been the redefinition of the modern Pakistani wedding.

Weddings were traditionally family affairs where aunts, uncles, cousins, siblings and close friends got together to organise week-long festivities and celebrations for the bride and groom. Dholkis were evenings leading up to the main event where a cousin or aunt who was an expert dholki player took centre-stage and everyone else sang along without a microphone and pre-recorded lyrics. The repertoire of songs ranged from nostalgic melodies about the bride leaving her home to lyrical love ballads about the new couple finding happiness in marriage. Nothing much changed for decades. Then came satellite TV, Bollywood, the internet, Facebook, Instagram as well as the enormous global creation of wealth—for a small group of people—from the 1990s onwards. Wedding events were popularised via social media by celebrities who looked to host more and more glamorous and theatrically produced extravaganzas to boost their brand value. Thus the event manager was born. Managers like Preston Bailey and Colin Cowie outdid one another for clients like Donald Trump, the Cruises and the Kardashians. Taste suffered and business soared. The world watched and everyone wanted to have a wedding to remember.

Event managers like Preston Bailey and Colin Cowie outdid one another for clients like Donald Trump, the Cruises and the Kardashians. Taste suffered and business soared

I still remember the first time J&S was asked to do a wedding. I was a bit shocked: this was the early 2000s and nobody blindly handed over the management of their entire wedding to anyone but family members. My friend Sadia, a working woman who runs a large industry, was wonderfully matter-of-fact about it. “You know what has to be done. I want the best. And you are the best. I leave it you.” Carte blanche, or letting the event manager do what he wants, is the smartest way forward. It avoids confusion, the themes cohere, and everyone is happy. We used a ruby-colored velvet canopy which we extended and elaborated by hanging a stupendous handmade Napoleon III chandelier from it. The trend of velvet canopies and chandeliers started from here. We used no catering chairs as all the seating consisted of specially-made lounges, divans and chaises. Classic European floral arrangements and twinkling candles in crystal votives adorned the cocktail tables. Casablanca lillies, tulips, hydrangeas and phylanopsis were flown in by the truckload from Holland, Paris and Thailand. Smoked salmon blini canapés were served to 1000 guests as Frank Sinatra and Nat King Cole wafted through the marquee. Guests were transported to another time and place. For the Mehndi, a 200-foot scalloped metal walkway of roses and marigolds delighted everyone as they walked under it to enter the enchanted evening. There was a palpable feeling that night that something different was happening; we were giving people a chance to do things in a novel way on one of the most traditional days of their lives. Phone calls followed and the next day we were in the wedding business.

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From then on J&S has done some of the biggest and most extravagant weddings in the country. We’ve introduced innovative decor, food and entertainment to create a new style of wedding events in Pakistan. Many companies have followed suit. I’m happy as it gives more and more people employment, and it keeps the environment energized and competitive.

But now things are changing again. A whole new group of young professionals and a growing urban middle class want the J&S style but at a budgeted price. They want to see beautifully-produced themes and moodboards from which they can chose. People don’t want to spend months designing and redesigning their events. Hence we have moved forward and launched a new series of intricately-designed themes which include Mughal Splendour, French Provencal, Morrocan, Italian Rennaissance, Modern White, Truck Art, Mid-Summer Night’s Dream, Colourful Desi, Art Deco and one inspired by Ancient Hanging Gardens.  We have also added a new set of services which include destination management, professional photography and videography, traditional rasms, present and bid selection, sourcing venues, selecting choreographers, organising guest-relation officers and making appointments with designers, make-up artists and hairdressers amongst other things. These are coupled with round-the-clock client servicing for an increasingly demanding and discerning clientele. Our catering company Zaffron has created delicious and affordable menus and romantic table-settings, much sought after by brides and grooms.

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There was a palpable feeling that night that something different was happening; we were giving people a chance to do things in a novel way on one of the most traditional days of their lives

As the global economy develops and new tastes and conventions trickle into Pakistan, the modern Pakistani wedding will no doubt change again. Though I am in the business of making each event unique and individualised, I can’t help but think of simpler days when brides didn’t wear makeup on their mehndis, when all you needed was a spoon and a dholak and an energetic khala to get the show going.

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Kiran Chaudhry Amlani on the Indian appetite for Pakistani fashion

Harmeet Bajaj, Faraz Manan, Shoaib Shafi & Kiran Amlani with a guest
Riyaaz & Kiran Amlani at Faraz Manan & Shoaib Shafi’s exhibition in Delhi

In many ways, I was trained to be a nomad from an early age. My father, as an upright government officer, got posted and re-posted to different locations across the country more frequently than most of his colleagues. We seldom stayed in the same city for more than two years at a time—to the extent that before the age of sixteen, I had changed at least twelve schools across four countries. While many would have seen this as disruptive to a child’s school routine, I believe it made me resilient and comfortable in a constantly changing environment.

I have started life ‘all over again’ so many times, that it’s almost second nature now. Far from being scary, I perhaps unconsciously seek it out as a precursor to personal and professional growth. When you are defined by no particular identity or worldview, life is full of possibilities, you see opportunities everywhere and the learning process is intense. It was in this way that, when I started my new life in India post-marriage, I saw the potential of Pakistani fashion in India.

I have always had a very close association with the fashion community in Pakistan, having been to high school with the likes of Kamiar Rokni and Hassan Shehryar Yasin; being their ‘date’ to many a fashion after-party and witnessing many fashion weeks in support whenever my friends would show. My interest in the business of fashion, however, began last year while travelling to India and mostly while I was shopping for my wedding trousseau!

I could not believe the sheer variety I experienced in India — the emphasis on local textiles and regional craft. I also realized that the sheer size of the upper middle-class in India makes fashion a very different creature in India than it is in Pakistan, where it still remains elite-driven. There is something for every budget and even top designers cater to a middle class sensibility.

Faraz Manan with a guest
Guests at the exhibition

Matters came to a head when two friends of mine from Lahore, Faraz Manan and Shoaib Shafi, got in touch with me as they were planning to come to India for an exhibition and were looking for a venue. I naturally spoke to my husband, who is in the hospitality business and we decided to have the exhibition at one of his venues in Delhi. Normally operating as a restaurant and nightclub called “Shroom,” this venue was perfect as it was already located in a popular mall for designer clothes. Without knowing what we were getting ourselves into, we decided to help Faraz and Shoaib put the whole event together – from getting a good guest-list, renting racks, lights and mirrors, to printing invites and posters.

Delhi Fashion Week — the Anju Modi show

We were completely overwhelmed by the response that followed. I had not realized the very real curiosity about Pakistan and Pakistani fashion that exists in the Indian mind. So many people already knew about popular brands like Crescent and Sana Safinaz. Interestingly, most people had seen only our cotton ‘lawn’ suits and nothing like the more upper-end, well-styled and very modern pret that Faraz was showcasing. To them, it was interestingly styled, stood out, and nobody else would have it – enough reasons for them to purchase it.

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Amusingly, Faraz had asked me to wear one of his outfits each day of the two-day exhibition, and as it happened, I had to change several times a day, as everyone literally wanted to buy the “shirt off my back”! One girl, very sweetly and rather earnestly asked me if I could just “take it off please so I can wear it to my kitty party tomorrow morning”! I thought she was kidding, and tried to laugh it off. But when she didn’t budge and just stood there expectantly, waiting for me to take off my clothes so she could have them, I realized the opportunity that exists. It was then that I decided that I wanted to explore this further and test the market properly.

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Harmeet Bajaj, Riyaaz’s close friend and business partner in the Delhi restaurants, agreed to be my partner in this exploratory venture and we hatched a plan to have a multi-designer exhibition in August of this year, on a much larger scale, with some of Pakistan’s top names. Harmeet is a fashion veteran, having taught at NIFT, choreographed numerous shows and run a successful garments export business. Having a ‘fashion insider’ mind-set was a big advantage.

The sheer size of the upper middle-class in India makes fashion a very different creature in India than it is in Pakistan, where it still remains elite-driven

Roasted Vegetable Millefuille & Pickled Mushrooms — Missoni
Roasted Scallops, Bouillon of Slow Cooked Onions & Assorted Flowers — Rohit Bal
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Peanut Butter & Chocolate Ganache
— Manish Arora

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Smoke House Deli Restaurant

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While we viewed this project as more of a learning experience than anything else — to identify the ‘type of product’ that would work well in India, as well as the people we could do business with in Pakistan — we were amazed by the response. We had some big names like Sana Safinaz, Sania Maskatiya, Elan, Crescent by Faraz Manan, Nida Azwer Umar Sayeed, and Fahad Hussayn on board. For a first venture, we had been ambitious, showcasing nine designers and almost seven hundred pieces! But as they say, “build it and they will come.” The buzz about the exhibition was all over the city, as an exclusively Pakistani fashion event is quite rare in India, especially given the recent political tensions over the line of control. The Delhi fashion circuit was generally very impressed with the offering — clamoring to leave their details on our visitor’s book to ensure they were invited to the next exhibition.

Lahore designers fared better in Delhi and Karachi designers better in Bombay

After Delhi, we took selected stock to Bombay and had three trunk shows there in association with a couple of established multi-brand stores with a good clientele. Bombay is a market not many Pakistani designers have tapped into, but it is not one to ignore, especially given that it is the hub of the media and entertainment industries and the impact of Bollywood on fashion cannot be underestimated.

Interestingly, Lahore designers fared better in Delhi and Karachi designers better in Bombay. I realized yet again how much we are a ‘geographically’ rather than a ‘nationally’ defined region. Indeed Bombay and Karachi have far more in common than just an aesthetic. Both cities are commerce-driven and full of practical-minded people; it is easy to see that they were sister-cities until not long ago. Similarly, Delhi and Lahore share a common soul in their bent towards the arts and culture. It makes sense that what works in one city, will work in the other.

Perhaps it was all this talk of fashion, or perhaps it happened more organically, but my husband Riyaaz was simultaneously inspired to incorporate the lure of fashion into his restaurants. His creative team has recently come up with a concept to fuse the world of fashion and food and they regularly have “Deconstruct” events at the Delhi restaurants, where each dish on a special fine dining menu is inspired by a particular fashion designer’s style and design philosophy. Prominent designers like Rohit Bal, Pankaj & Nidhi etc. opened the first deconstruct evening and fashion bigwigs like Pernia Qureshi came out to endorse it. He has been on an expansion drive recently, opening his most popular brand, “Smoke House Deli” in Delhi and Bangalore in the last couple of months and I have also had the opportunity to understand these other cities of India from a cultural and commercial perspective.

I had to change several times a day, as everyone literally wanted to buy the “shirt off my back”! One girl rather earnestly asked me if I could just “take it off please so I can wear it to my kitty party tomorrow morning”!

I think it’s wonderful how the Indians laud and pay homage to the achievements of each other, even if they come from completely different fields. They understand that together they are more than the sum of their parts. I am always amazed at how my husband goes out of his way to support other restaurateurs launch their latest ventures, and vice versa. They help each other get ahead.

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But I cannot help but feel that this is just a product of having a market size that is big enough for everyone. The fact remains that the Indian market boasts several major cities that any business can grow into — be it fashion or food. They don’t just have Lahore and Karachi, but Delhi, Bombay, Pune, Chandigarh, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai, Calcutta. The list is endless. Also, their focus remains the middle and upper-middle class. This means the market is big enough for everyone to flourish.

I am left with a sense that the Pakistani textile and fashion industry could double almost overnight if the Indian market became available to it — not to mention the glorious dividend in the form of lasting peace in the region.

Frieha Altaf, in her last GT diary, reminisces about Manhattan

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Parishe

I’m back from my swanky vacation, and back into the swing of things. After a ten-day stint in Italy, I retired in good old Surrey for some much-needed R n R. How much can a girl party after all? Well, I flew to New York for the weekend to spend time with my buddies. Going to the US is a feat. I mean, isn’t everyone paranoid about Immigration in the US? The horror stories of people being interrogated for hours, some having to completely strip at arrival were made only too familiar by movies like “The Reluctant Fundamentalist” and “My Name is Khan.” After watching the “Welcome” video on American Airlines, I noticed that the same video ran at immigration. The Americans are really trying to ease tensions by presenting their “soft” image.

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Frieha Altaf

The video features a variety of Americans smiling and welcoming everyone to the US. It even has a hijab lady in it! Yours truly was equally nervous but I guess the Canadian passport worked magic. What did upset me was how my hand-carry bag was opened and a desi immigration officer randomly picked me just before boarding the aircraft. (Have you noticed that most immigration officers in London are desis?) She gave me a lecture on smoking but was most interested in my attire and shopping!

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Parishe

Now, there is no city like the Big Apple and one can’t do New York without a visit to the Metropolitan museum. I had been waiting to see the roof painting by Pakistan’s very own Imran Qureshi, and finally I got to see it. After lying down and posing on his painting I proceeded to see the “Chaos to Couture” exhibition. A low-key lunch at Bryant Park followed, after which I ran to dinner with Saqib Malik, Annie Ali Khan, and Mehreen Jabbar, downtown at the Bowery.

Syma Iqbal, Saqib Malik,  Frieha Altaf & Deepak Perwani
Syma Iqbal, Saqib Malik, Frieha Altaf & Deepak Perwani

The next day I decided I had gone too long without detoxing. I took to the gym and decided to take advantage of the gorgeous view of the New York Palace hotel (made famous by the Gossip Girl episodes where it was used as their high school) and its view of the St Patrick’s church. More museum visits to the Guggenheim and Moma followed, after which I headed for rooftop drinks with Omar Rahim, my Guatemalan friend Douglas, Julia, and Saqib. I also squeezed in a play. “Sleep no More” was a treat. Set in a warehouse, it was one of those modern, interactive plays: one followed the actors and dancers through a series of rooms and halls!

The horror stories of people being interrogated for hours, some having to completely strip in arrival were made only too familiar by movies like “The Reluctant Fundamentalist” and “My Name is Khan”

Sunday was spent at Saks Fifth Avenue where I purchased my first Prada and Stella McCartney dress along with six other things. Maxing my credit cards, I took a flight to Toronto.

Raana Khan, Maheen Karim, Frieha Altaf & Sanam Agha
Raana Khan, Maheen Karim, Frieha Altaf & Sanam Agha

There is nothing like family. Seeing my brother, mother, niece, and daughter was a delight. My son had decided to spend his month in Scotland training for athletics. My poor brother was keeping 18-hour fasts and I found my mother addicted to “Wheel of fortune” and “The price is right.”  The weekend saw me check into Trump Towers. The annual Caribbean parade was spectacular and the evening was spent with friends Anu and Omar at the Prava club. The purely RED Russian-inspired club had pictures of Lenin and Stalin, they played the Russian national anthem and sang on top of the bar and tables. But, unlike New York, Toronto shuts its doors at 2am! The Louboutin Exhibition the next day, however, made up for Toronto’s general anemia compared to Manhattan.

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Frieha’s friends

Heading to London I changed Parishes’ flight and took her to my friend’s place in Surrey. We dined at Ping Pong and spent the next day with my old friend Beena and her daughter. Finally, arriving in Pakistan I found my cell phone blocked! It appears the idea to put my cell-phone on roaming, from Europe to the US, took its toll. Deepak and Syma took me across to my friend Sadaf ‘s 40th birthday, which was done in style. I then ran to Feeha Jamshed’s wedding party and back to Sadaf’s for nashta: New York may never close down at night but neither does Karachi. After that, the jet lag kicked in and there was little sleep. But Feeha’s mehndi was fantastic. I dished out a 22-year-old Faiza Samee sari, and gauging from the complements, it looked as good that night as it did more than two decades ago.

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I dished out a 22-year-old Faiza Samee sari, and gauging from the complements, it looked as good that night as it did more than two decades ago

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Frieha at the Caribbean parade

This has to be the season of birthdays. I spent a lovely afternoon with Maria Wasti’s at Café Flo. I can’t get over how handsome Sikander, Florence’s son, is. Methinks I could produce a show like “the Bachelor” and put all the handsome guys of Pakistan in it!

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Bilal, Ayesha & Sikander

GT friends, my tenure at the social diary is over for now. I hope you’ve enjoyed my rants, raves, flights of fancy, and of course, updates on the lifestyles of the rich and famous. You will still see me in GT as I intend to keep being photographed and event-planning. Adios for now and remember to live it up!

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Frieha Altaf, Raana Khan & Shehrnaz

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Sanam Agha & Frieha Altaf

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Sayeeda Leghari, Pinky Durrani & Neshmia with a friend
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Noor & Frieha
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Jamal Mir & Afroze Javeri
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