This Eid, designer extraordinaire Mohsin Naveed Ranjha invites us into a world where tradition tiptoes through a haze of elegance. His latest collection, Ankh Macholi, is a poetic interplay of nostalgia, innocence, and grace—brought to life entirely in ethereal white. With intricate handwork and timeless silhouettes, the collection whispers stories of childhood memories and festive warmth. In an exclusive cover feature, MNR shares the soul behind the stitches, the symbolism of white, and why Ankh Macholi may just be his most heartfelt collection yet.
Tell us about your new Eid collection “Ankh Macholi”—what inspired its name and concept?
The name comes from the childhood game we all know, but for us, This collection delves into the nuanced way a woman observes a man, capturing the essence of her gaze filled with honesty, depth, and tenderness. It explores the subtle complexities of that silent connection, imbuing the entire concept with an intimate and heartfelt inspiration. Every piece reflects the beauty of vulnerability and the profound understanding that often exists between two souls, inviting viewers to ponder the richness of those unspoken moments.
Why did you choose an all-white palette for this collection? What does white symbolize for you in the context of Eid?
We selected white as our color choice because it embodies a sense of purity and tranquility. This hue perfectly captures the essence of Eid, a celebration that radiates joy and reflection. With the warmth of June’s sweltering summer sun upon us, white evokes a refreshing coolness, enhancing the festive atmosphere and invoking a feeling of serenity amidst the heat.
There’s a beautiful nostalgia in the name “Ankh Macholi”—does the collection reflect any memories or moments from your own past?
Absolutely. It brings back vivid memories of my childhood in Punjab. I can almost feel the warmth of those Eid mornings, filled with a sense of joy and togetherness. The air was fragrant with spices and sweets, and everyone wore their simplest yet most beautiful clothes, adorned with vibrant colors. It’s a nostalgic reminder of that pure, innocent love we all seem to recall from somewhere deep within us, capturing the essence of simpler times and cherished moments.
How did you approach the embroidery work in this collection? Can you describe the kind of craftsmanship that went into it?
We focused on creating a design that is both delicate and intricately detailed. The piece features exquisite threadwork that weaves a tapestry of texture, complemented by charming eyelet details that add an airy elegance. Each element has been meticulously hand-finished, showcasing our commitment to craftsmanship. Every stitch and embellishment has been infused with love and care, resulting in a product that truly reflects our passion for quality and artistry.
White is often seen as a minimalist color, but your designs are known for their richness. How did you strike a balance between simplicity and opulence?
That was the challenge—making white feel distinctly MNR. We wanted to preserve the purity and elegance of the color while infusing it with the brand’s signature character. To achieve this, we worked meticulously with texture, layering, and fine embroidery, allowing the fabric to come alive with subtle complexity. Each detail was carefully considered to create dimension and depth without adding visual or physical weight. The result is a piece that feels light and effortless, yet unmistakably rich in craftsmanship and identity—true to the spirit of MNR.
Would you say “Ankh Macholi” is a departure from your usual work, or is it an evolution of your signature style?
This experience represents a pivotal moment in both my personal development and the progression of our brand. It adopts a more nuanced and reflective tone, while still being firmly anchored in the unique details and narratives that characterize MNR. We have gained a deeper level of maturity, which is also reflected in the evolution of our brand storytelling.
What kind of woman do you see wearing this collection? What mood or energy does she carry?
She’s confident, kind, and graceful. She doesn’t need to shout to be seen because there’s power in her calm.
Which piece from the collection is closest to your heart and why?
There’s a white kurta with floral vines. It’s simple but has such emotion in the embroidery. It feels like home to me.
You’ve always had a deep connection to tradition in your designs—how do you keep that alive while staying relevant and contemporary?
By being honest. I love our culture and our people, but I also see how people live today. So I blend the two. It is never forced, always natural.
How do you want people to feel when they wear “Ankh Macholi”?
Happy, and loved.
What was the creative process like behind the scenes—mood boards, materials, late-night design sessions? Give us a glimpse.
Lots of chai, lots of sketches at 2 a.m., discussions with my team and many beautiful messes in the studio.
What does Eid mean to you personally, and how does that reflect in this collection?
It’s family, prayer, food, and dressing up with love. This collection carries that spirit.
Can we expect any signature MNR silhouettes or are you introducing something fresh with this line?
Some signatures are there, yes but we’ve played a lot with new silhouettes and fabric textures, especially in menswear. It will feel new.
You’ve dressed celebrities and royalty—any hints on who might be spotted wearing “Ankh Macholi” this Eid?
Let’s just say you’ll see some familiar faces but to be honest the real joy is seeing everyday people wear it their own way.
What’s next for Mohsin Naveed Ranjha after this collection?
Something very close to my roots, think stories from the soil and abroad but with a twist. I’m excited.
