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Manzoor Ahmed Ahsan on the All Pakistan Music Conference

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In the good old days, when the All Pakistan Music Conference (APMC) used to be held in the open-air theatre, the audience was ceremonial in coming prepared for the all-night extravaganza that is the final day. It was always chilly. People would bring thermoses of chai, sandwiches, and even gao takias for when their backs started to give way. Every year, devotees and enthusiasts showed up in strength at the APMC, and this year was no different.

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Lahore staged the APMC throughout the second week of October. Although the magical atmosphere has diminished, fans of classical music arrived in great numbers, and heard the music with serious attentiveness. The first day was scheduled for school, college and university students and amateurs. The second evening was dedicated to gharaano ki miraas. On this night budding artists from families of established singers, which are known as gharaanas and who are the maestros of the future, were to show their prowess. The third day was scheduled for folk, loke, thumri and ghazal. Even though the APMC strictly promotes the classical genre, they also present folk songs and ghazals. The fourth day was dedicated to pure classical music. This comprises khyal gaayaki and instrumentals. I was delighted to see the high standard of the performers through out.

When the glamorous and evergreen Fariha Parvez presented a thumri, the audience got to see her in a new light as a classical singer. People who had sneaked out of the hall to make phone calls and get chai made sure to return for her performance

On the second day of the conference, Shujaat Ali Khan — the grandson of the great Salamat Ali Khan — came out with a wonderful rendition of khyal gaayaki. He travels worldwide showcasing his talent and holds tremendous promise for the future. Chaand Khan and Suraj Khan, sons of the Ustad Hussain Buksh Gullu, were simply outstanding. The jugalbandi, that is the musical rivalry that ensues on stage between musicians, so characteristic of the gharaanas from which they hail, was a pleasure to witness. That the musicians are on equal footing makes the playful competition between them all the more enjoyable.

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The performances of several tabla players were a special treat. Haroon Samuel, channeling the Punjab gharaana style of tabla, is an accomplished solo performer. Riaz Ahmed on tabla was also quite unbelievable as were several flute players. During the performances of the flute players there were almost no cell phone conversations, trips to the canteen, or general chatter. The flute performances held everything still and the listeners seemed to be in a trance-like state.

The evening ended at 9:30 am in the morning to a giddy, tired, and mesmerised audience

 A young boy on the Pakhawaj caught my eye, and ear. Pakhawaj is a very old percussion instrument and forms the basis of all classical music from the subcontinent. It is retained today in its original shape and form. The Late Hayat Ahmed Khan, the founder and ardent benefactor of the APMC, took pains to promote Pakhawaj as he was afraid of it becoming extinct.

Perhaps what touched me most were the singers from Kushaab and Gujranwala. These artists would never be able to get to perform in front of audiences of the caliber witnessed in Lahore, and they were on top of the world, gesticulating confidently and smiling.

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Ustad Hamid Ali Khan, the youngest brother of the Late Ustad Amanat Ali Khan, presented three ghazals of his late brother. These ghazals have attained permanence for any listener and connoisseur of music. Ustad Hamid Ali Khan put his heart and soul in the performance and it arguably was one of his best. I looked around and saw a rapt audience; some women even had their eyes closed in a kind of serene contemplation.

Akmal Qadri was accompanied by his teenaged son, also on flute, and they put up a magical performance

When the glamorous and evergreen Fariha Parvez presented a thumri, the audience got to see Fariha Parvez in a new light as a classical singer. People who had sneaked out of the hall to make phone calls and get chai made sure to return for her performance. She is a household name and has achieved much fame and success for her popular music.

On the classical night, we got to enjoy a flute performance by Haider Rehman. It is really amazing how far Haider has come and how he continues to impress. A banker as well as a committed musician, he has been entrancing listeners from an early age. Dr. Amjad Pervaiz, who used to sing folk songs earlier in his musical career and has lately taken to classical singing since the last about ten years, came out with a good performance of khyal gaayaki. Ustad Badar-uz-Zaman, and his brother, Ustad Qamar-uz-Zaman were their usual charming selves and came out with an outstanding performance. Ustad Badar-uz-Zaman has a PhD in music and is one of the most qualified and educated musicians on the classical music scene. And then Ustad Mubarak Ali Khan, who has a connection to Ustad Bade Ghulam Ali Khan, a very high profile musician of the subcontinent, presented. This too was received very well.

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On the final night, Taj Buledi and his group had come from Balouchistan and presented Balochi folk songs. This was followed by flute from Akmal Qadri, who is the ustad of Haider Rehman. Akmal Qadri was accompanied by his teenaged son, also on flute, and they put up a magical performance. A performance by brothers Javed Niazi and Babar Niazi, the sons of Late Ustad Tufail Niazi, sang one of the eternal hits of their father, Chirrian da chamba. Judging by the thunderous applause, the audience was unanimous in their impartiality to Tufail Niazi’s undying music. Noor Zehra on the Saagar veena was in a class of her own. She was followed by Jaffer Hussain on clarinet, which was also among the top performances of the conference. But an instrument missing in most of the music conference was the sitar. Rakae Jamil was one of the only ones and he presented an excellent but short performance and left me thirsting for more. Ustad Naseeruddin Sami, who belongs to the Delhi gharaana and is presently settled in Karachi, had travelled to Lahore for the conference and in the accompaniment of his son, an accomplished young individual, came out with the best performance of the entire music conference. His other son was on the harmonium. Their music is mellow, serene smooth-flowing; it takes you to a sublime place.

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This year, there was a unique performance from Ustad Altaf Hussain, more commonly known as Ustad Tafu. He has provided music to over seven hundred films and is well-known and very respected in the film industry; this was his first tabla performance at the music conference. He was performing with two fingers, as well as with both hands on one tabla. The evening ended at 9:30 am in the morning to a very giddy, tired, and mesmerised audience.

A word about the audience. It was one of the most mature and attentive audiences I have witnessed in my many years of going to the APMC. People sat for hours spellbound and consumed by the music, critically appreciating every move, every taal, every sur. The hall was packed to capacity with no seats available, with many people sitting on stairs and standing on the sides. It made me think: this is what makes Pakistan shine. If only we had more music, more melody, in our lives.

Kiran Chaudhry Amlani on the Indian appetite for Pakistani fashion

Harmeet Bajaj, Faraz Manan, Shoaib Shafi & Kiran Amlani with a guest
Riyaaz & Kiran Amlani at Faraz Manan & Shoaib Shafi’s exhibition in Delhi

In many ways, I was trained to be a nomad from an early age. My father, as an upright government officer, got posted and re-posted to different locations across the country more frequently than most of his colleagues. We seldom stayed in the same city for more than two years at a time—to the extent that before the age of sixteen, I had changed at least twelve schools across four countries. While many would have seen this as disruptive to a child’s school routine, I believe it made me resilient and comfortable in a constantly changing environment.

I have started life ‘all over again’ so many times, that it’s almost second nature now. Far from being scary, I perhaps unconsciously seek it out as a precursor to personal and professional growth. When you are defined by no particular identity or worldview, life is full of possibilities, you see opportunities everywhere and the learning process is intense. It was in this way that, when I started my new life in India post-marriage, I saw the potential of Pakistani fashion in India.

I have always had a very close association with the fashion community in Pakistan, having been to high school with the likes of Kamiar Rokni and Hassan Shehryar Yasin; being their ‘date’ to many a fashion after-party and witnessing many fashion weeks in support whenever my friends would show. My interest in the business of fashion, however, began last year while travelling to India and mostly while I was shopping for my wedding trousseau!

I could not believe the sheer variety I experienced in India — the emphasis on local textiles and regional craft. I also realized that the sheer size of the upper middle-class in India makes fashion a very different creature in India than it is in Pakistan, where it still remains elite-driven. There is something for every budget and even top designers cater to a middle class sensibility.

Faraz Manan with a guest
Guests at the exhibition

Matters came to a head when two friends of mine from Lahore, Faraz Manan and Shoaib Shafi, got in touch with me as they were planning to come to India for an exhibition and were looking for a venue. I naturally spoke to my husband, who is in the hospitality business and we decided to have the exhibition at one of his venues in Delhi. Normally operating as a restaurant and nightclub called “Shroom,” this venue was perfect as it was already located in a popular mall for designer clothes. Without knowing what we were getting ourselves into, we decided to help Faraz and Shoaib put the whole event together – from getting a good guest-list, renting racks, lights and mirrors, to printing invites and posters.

Delhi Fashion Week — the Anju Modi show

We were completely overwhelmed by the response that followed. I had not realized the very real curiosity about Pakistan and Pakistani fashion that exists in the Indian mind. So many people already knew about popular brands like Crescent and Sana Safinaz. Interestingly, most people had seen only our cotton ‘lawn’ suits and nothing like the more upper-end, well-styled and very modern pret that Faraz was showcasing. To them, it was interestingly styled, stood out, and nobody else would have it – enough reasons for them to purchase it.

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Amusingly, Faraz had asked me to wear one of his outfits each day of the two-day exhibition, and as it happened, I had to change several times a day, as everyone literally wanted to buy the “shirt off my back”! One girl, very sweetly and rather earnestly asked me if I could just “take it off please so I can wear it to my kitty party tomorrow morning”! I thought she was kidding, and tried to laugh it off. But when she didn’t budge and just stood there expectantly, waiting for me to take off my clothes so she could have them, I realized the opportunity that exists. It was then that I decided that I wanted to explore this further and test the market properly.

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Harmeet Bajaj, Riyaaz’s close friend and business partner in the Delhi restaurants, agreed to be my partner in this exploratory venture and we hatched a plan to have a multi-designer exhibition in August of this year, on a much larger scale, with some of Pakistan’s top names. Harmeet is a fashion veteran, having taught at NIFT, choreographed numerous shows and run a successful garments export business. Having a ‘fashion insider’ mind-set was a big advantage.

The sheer size of the upper middle-class in India makes fashion a very different creature in India than it is in Pakistan, where it still remains elite-driven

Roasted Vegetable Millefuille & Pickled Mushrooms — Missoni
Roasted Scallops, Bouillon of Slow Cooked Onions & Assorted Flowers — Rohit Bal
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Peanut Butter & Chocolate Ganache
— Manish Arora

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Smoke House Deli Restaurant

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While we viewed this project as more of a learning experience than anything else — to identify the ‘type of product’ that would work well in India, as well as the people we could do business with in Pakistan — we were amazed by the response. We had some big names like Sana Safinaz, Sania Maskatiya, Elan, Crescent by Faraz Manan, Nida Azwer Umar Sayeed, and Fahad Hussayn on board. For a first venture, we had been ambitious, showcasing nine designers and almost seven hundred pieces! But as they say, “build it and they will come.” The buzz about the exhibition was all over the city, as an exclusively Pakistani fashion event is quite rare in India, especially given the recent political tensions over the line of control. The Delhi fashion circuit was generally very impressed with the offering — clamoring to leave their details on our visitor’s book to ensure they were invited to the next exhibition.

Lahore designers fared better in Delhi and Karachi designers better in Bombay

After Delhi, we took selected stock to Bombay and had three trunk shows there in association with a couple of established multi-brand stores with a good clientele. Bombay is a market not many Pakistani designers have tapped into, but it is not one to ignore, especially given that it is the hub of the media and entertainment industries and the impact of Bollywood on fashion cannot be underestimated.

Interestingly, Lahore designers fared better in Delhi and Karachi designers better in Bombay. I realized yet again how much we are a ‘geographically’ rather than a ‘nationally’ defined region. Indeed Bombay and Karachi have far more in common than just an aesthetic. Both cities are commerce-driven and full of practical-minded people; it is easy to see that they were sister-cities until not long ago. Similarly, Delhi and Lahore share a common soul in their bent towards the arts and culture. It makes sense that what works in one city, will work in the other.

Perhaps it was all this talk of fashion, or perhaps it happened more organically, but my husband Riyaaz was simultaneously inspired to incorporate the lure of fashion into his restaurants. His creative team has recently come up with a concept to fuse the world of fashion and food and they regularly have “Deconstruct” events at the Delhi restaurants, where each dish on a special fine dining menu is inspired by a particular fashion designer’s style and design philosophy. Prominent designers like Rohit Bal, Pankaj & Nidhi etc. opened the first deconstruct evening and fashion bigwigs like Pernia Qureshi came out to endorse it. He has been on an expansion drive recently, opening his most popular brand, “Smoke House Deli” in Delhi and Bangalore in the last couple of months and I have also had the opportunity to understand these other cities of India from a cultural and commercial perspective.

I had to change several times a day, as everyone literally wanted to buy the “shirt off my back”! One girl rather earnestly asked me if I could just “take it off please so I can wear it to my kitty party tomorrow morning”!

I think it’s wonderful how the Indians laud and pay homage to the achievements of each other, even if they come from completely different fields. They understand that together they are more than the sum of their parts. I am always amazed at how my husband goes out of his way to support other restaurateurs launch their latest ventures, and vice versa. They help each other get ahead.

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But I cannot help but feel that this is just a product of having a market size that is big enough for everyone. The fact remains that the Indian market boasts several major cities that any business can grow into — be it fashion or food. They don’t just have Lahore and Karachi, but Delhi, Bombay, Pune, Chandigarh, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Chennai, Calcutta. The list is endless. Also, their focus remains the middle and upper-middle class. This means the market is big enough for everyone to flourish.

I am left with a sense that the Pakistani textile and fashion industry could double almost overnight if the Indian market became available to it — not to mention the glorious dividend in the form of lasting peace in the region.

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