By Mahlia S. Lone
One of the season’s most noticeable color trends is pink, in shades from bubblegum to dusty rose, and from salmon to fuschia. Pantone identified Pink Peacock as one of the top shades of the moment. The color exploded on the Brian Maxwell S/S 19 show at NYFW, was seen in collections by Kate Spade New York, by Cushnie and on various other runways. Always charming and feminine, pink can easily be incorporated into your wardrobe.
Brandon Maxwell S/S 19 at NYFW
Kate Spade New York bag
Gigi Hadid at the Brandon Maxwell show
Cushnie
Pantone: Pink Peacock
By Mahlia S. Lone
At NYFW S/S 2019, Ralph Lauren celebrated his 50th anniversary show in grand style in a specially constructed pavilion in the Bethesda Terrace Tunnel in Central Park. Patchwork rugs (Pakistani patchwork carpets have been in vogue for a while) covered the runway and the collection was in his trademark All-American cool style with a cross-generational appeal. Though the American West set in contemporary Stateside was the prevailing theme, one element that leapt out was the patchwork reminiscent of tribal Pakistani and Afghani handicrafts and garments. Heavy coats and luxe dresses constructed with a patchwork of rich fabrics, like crushed velvet, wool knits, leather, fur, brocade, sequins, tweed and denim, as well as embroidered vests and paisley scarves showed that our collective heritage was on display. To overcome the hefty price tags on these Ralph Lauren designer pieces, we can look closer to home to emulate this style.
Gigi Hadid in a $20,000 patchwork dress and chandelier earrings
Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford’s daughter
Scarf woven with paisleys, a traditional Kashmiri motif
Patchwork rugs
Embroidery on waistcoat
Alumna of L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Saudi/French Sakina Shbib first built her technique at Chanel Atelier as a seamstress, where she learnt the art of embroidery, the rigour of Haute Couture and the demand of an elite clientèle. Then, she met fashion designer Alexandre Vauthier in 2013 and started a year of collaboration; she learnt the draping and structuring of women’s garments. Later on, she attained more experience at L’Atelier de Givenchy.
In her latest collection, Sakina expresses swan-like femininity, staging the transformation of Princess Odette into a black swan through her designs. The skirts, inspired by ballet costumes, are light and flowing — a subtle glow of transparency unveiling the grace of the legs, ruffles of Dentelle de Chantilly creating a playful volume on a base of transparent organza. The looks celebrate the grace of a ballerina, but with a dark twist.
A draped top enhances the sensuality of a shoulder, the ball gowns have a slit on the leg, and the backless cuts unveil the curves of the female figure. Sensuality is omnipresent. It expresses itself through the complexity of identity, between the light and the obscure. Hand-made embroideries of crystal brighten the darkness of velvet, a myriad gold tubes drawing a constellation of stars on black organza, tinted by the brightness of crystal adding a mysterious glow to the collection.
Duality looms throughout each piece, the aesthetics of the Black Swan take roots in the expression of the evil double, and its balance between force and fragility. It’s Art as Fashion.
With their widely praised thriller Gumm, filmmakers Ammar Lasani and Kanza Zia have arrived in the world of cinema. The debut film of the husband and wife filmmaking duo has been exhibited at numerous international film festivals and has won awards, accolades and praise all over the world. Ahead of the wide release of Gumm, the talented young couple sits down with Ally Adnan for an exclusive interview for GT and talk about their first feature film and how it is to work together
Gumm was compared with Alejandro G. Iñárritu’s epic western The Revenant at the 2018 Madrid International Film Festival. That must feel good.
Ammar Lasani: It sure does! The Revenant is a masterpiece and a truly great film. Gumm and The Revenant are very different in style and approach but deal with the same theme – challenges facing man and nature in the modern world.
Pakistan has been ranked as the seventh most vulnerable country to climate change by German think-tank Germanwatch. Deforestation and global warming are real and serious problems. We have tried to highlight them by shooting a major portion of Gumm in the deep jungle.
Kanza Zia: I should add that the comparison to The Revenant is an honour not just for ourselves but also for our emerging film industry. It feels great to know that a Pakistani film is being compared to a critically acclaimed film from Hollywood.
Gumm has so far represented Pakistan in eight international film festivals. How was the film selected as Pakistan’s official entry to the festivals?
Kanza Zia: I believe that we have made a good film in Gumm. Its story-telling style allows viewers to fully enjoy, experience and, if you will, live the story. I believe that the film has been selected as Pakistan’s official entry to several film festivals because of its merit and quality.
Ammar Lasani: As graduates of the New York Film Academy, Kanza and I have an international perspective on films. We have made a film that has universal appeal and meets international filmmaking standards. We are glad – and grateful – that it has represented Pakistan all over the world and won seven major awards to date.
How does exhibition at a film festival help a film?
Kanza Zia: Exhibition at a film festival helps a film by giving it greater exposure, a wider audience, and a proper platform to present itself. It also helps raise the standing of the filmmakers amongst their peers.
Ammar Lasani:Â More importantly, it helps gets the best of viewers for films. The finest of critics, scholars, directors, industry professionals, and cinema aficionados attend these events. One cannot ask for a better audience for a film than the one we have at international film festivals.
How do awards benefit a film, its cast and crew?
Kanza Zia: Awards, along with positive reviews and box office returns, are a major index of a film’s worth. They offer great encouragement to the film’s cast and crew and raise their profile in the industry.
Ammar Lasani: They also help by making it easier to secure financing and support of subsequent projects. And, they are a veritable endorsement for the film, its cast and crew.
The two of you made Gumm – your first feature film – together. Was working together as a team difficult for you?
Kanza Zia: No, it was not. In my opinion, we did very well as a team; both of us are aware of our strengths and weaknesses and worked together in a manner that allowed us to enhance the former and mitigate the latter.
Ammar Lasani: Kanza and I are very different as filmmakers, with different areas of strength, skill and expertise. Fortunately, these areas are complementary and come together like pieces of a puzzle when we work together.
Did being married to each other help?
Kanza Zia: Yes, it did. Working with Ammar was like realizing a dream together with a friend, confidante and partner who completely shared your vision.
Ammar Lasani: The fact that we are married helped communication, collaboration and teamwork. We shared ideas, discussed details, debated approaches, and envisioned scenes, while preparing for our film, around the clock. I also feel that our debates, discussions and arguments were pleasant and productive because, as husband and wife, we had trust, respect and love for each other; with someone else, they could have been corrosive and hostile.
Writing, directing, editing and cinematography, you did a lot for the film yourself. Why?
Ammar Lasani: You forgot to include the background score. That was done by us, as well. We did engage the services of a lot of people for Gumm but there were areas where we felt others would not do a job to our liking. We took care of those ourselves.
Kanza Zia: Ours is a fledgling film industry and it is difficult to find people who are talented, capable, and share one’s passion, dedication and vision. We did not want to compromise by recruiting someone who would not be able to deliver satisfactorily and ended up taking a lot of roles in the making of Gumm.
How did you come up with the idea of Gumm?
Kanza Zia: We are staunch environmentalists and wanted to tell a story that highlighted the plight of our planet.
Ammar Lasani: The two of us have a great fascination for human relationships and believe that cinema is a great forum to explore them in all their complexity, beauty and charm. We started on Gumm with the aim of telling a moving story, centered around strong, flushed-out characters and their relationships. Environmentalism made a great backdrop for the story that we wanted to tell with Gumm.
How different is Gumm from the film that you had envisioned originally?
Ammar Lasani: It is not different at all. We made the exact film that we had envisioned originally.
Kanza Zia: I believe that the amount of planning and preparation that went into getting ready for Gumm ensured the faithful realization of our vision. There were times when challenges and difficulties made this hard, but we never gave in and never compromised. We had a film in mind and we were determined to make it. I am glad that we succeeded.
Gumm has three principal characters – Haider, Asad and Dua. How did you cast for the three roles?
Kanza Zia: I couldn’t agree more with the celebrated French film director and screenwriter, Bruno Dumont, when he says, “matching character and actor is what a good director does.†That is what we tried to do in Gumm.
Ammar Lasani: We had Sami Khan and Shamoon Abbasi in mind for the roles of Asad and Haider while writing the final draft of our screenplay but did not have anyone in mind for the Dua. We selected Shameen Khan for the role after watching her showreel. All three actors loved the story and screenplay of Gumm and signed on to do the films soon after we approached them. The film would not have been the same without the three of them.
Sami Khan has won tremendous praise – and the best actor awards at the prestigious 2018 Madrid International Film Festival and the Creation International Film Festival, Canada – for his portrayal of Asad in Gumm. Although he has always been known to be a resourceful actor, his performance in the film is said to be significantly better than the ones he has delivered in the past. Why did he do so well in Gumm?
Kanza Zia: Sami Khan is truly a director’s actor. He understands what the director wants and does his very best to deliver accordingly.
Ammar Lasani: I think a number of factors contributed to Sami Khan’s phenomenal performance in Gumm. First and foremost, he worked very hard, with great dedication and determination. Two, the story gave him a lot of room to perform well as an actor. Three, he understood our vision very well. Four, he is a very intelligent, insightful and perceptive person and used these attributes to make Asad’s character real. Most importantly, he used the positive energy that is an intrinsic part of his persona to bring out the best in himself and in others. I am not surprised that he has won two major awards for his performance in Gumm already. Kanza and I had always known that this would happen. He will certainly will take home many more.
Who was the most difficult actor to work with – Sami Khan, Shamoon Abbasi or Shameen Khan?
Kanza Zia: Each one of them have different personalities and styles of work. Ammar and I made sure that we accommodated their individual temperaments and gave them the space, guidance and environment they needed to deliver their best as actors. At the end of the day, it is the director’s job to manage each member of a film’s cast and crew. We did that as best as we could.
Ammar Lasani: Every human being has his own idiosyncrasies, peculiarities and eccentricities. We accommodated theirs as, I am sure, they accommodated ours. We made a great team together.
Who delivered the best performance: Sami Khan, Shamoon Abbasi or Shameen Khan?
Kanza Zia: In my opinion, all three of them delivered solid performances and did full justice to their roles. No one actor in Gumm is better than the others.
Ammar Lasani: That is not a fair question. It is like asking parents to name their favourite child. I think all three did well; very well to tell you the truth. People who have seen Gumm, loved Asad, hated Haider and adored Dua. That is testimony to the fact that all three actors played the roles convincingly.
What challenges did you face while making Gumm?
Kanza Zia: As debutante filmmakers, we faced a number of challenges. It is not easy to find one’s way in an industry where people constantly try to pull each other down.
Ammar Lasani: There were so many challenges that I stopped keeping track of them a long time ago. I believe that we handled each one of them well and have since moved on. I do not want to talk to them at a time when our film is doing wonderfully well all over the world and is poised for a huge domestic release.
What do you think of Gumm as a film?
Kanza Zia: Gumm has universal appeal. It explores familial relationships in great depth. It has drama, thrills, romance, and comedy. It tells a poignant story that is both engaging, interesting and entertaining. It makes a strong emotional impact and gives viewers food for thought.
Ammar Lasani: Gumm is an intelligent, sensitive and nuanced exploration of human relationships. It deals with topics that are real, important and relatable. It meets international filmmaking standards. I hope that I do not sound arrogant in saying so but I feel that Gumm will open new avenues for the Pakistani film industry by encouraging our filmmakers to make films for both domestic and international audiences.
Gumm has not been released in Pakistan yet. How do you think the film will do critically and commercially in Pakistan?
Kanza Zia: Gumm is very different from the Pakistani films that people are used to seeing in the country. I believe they will enjoy and appreciate its novelty and originality of the film.
Ammar Lasani: We are certain that the film will do exceedingly well in Pakistan, both critically and commercially. Pakistani filmgoers are intelligent, mature and discerning. Gumm will touch their hearts and move them both emotionally and intellectually. Watching the film will be a wonderful experience for them.
Are you planning a big premiere, full of glitz, glamour and glitter, for Gumm?
Ammar Lasani: As a matter of fact, we are. We did not cut any corners in the making of the film and do not plan to do so when marketing it either.
Kanza Zia: We plan to design a proper marketing campaign for Gumm, once the release date is finalized. It will, of course, include a big premiere.
Are you concerned that the critical acclaim of Gumm has raised expectations to a level that audiences may be disappointed when they see the film?
Kanza Zia: No, not at all.
Ammar Lasani: Gumm will live up to the raised expectations and then some.
Photographs by Fahad Raza
Who? Baktawar Malik
Why? This pretty young girl flaunts her tiny waist in a jumpsuit complemented by choice accessories
Who? Fahad Mustafa
Why? Cool dude!
Who? Ayman Khan
Why? Casual as only a LUMS student can be, she effortlessly blends low key with polished
Who? Nausheen Shah
Why? Because Less is still More!
Who? Khadijah Shah
Why? Wonderwoman has produced a baby and a new highstreet brand all in the last two months and looks like a golden goddess in the meanwhile
Who? Maria Wasti
Why? We love her traditional blush pink gharara
By Afshan Shafi and Eman Bandey
Salama Hasan of the fab blog InVogue Pakistan gives us an exclusive look inside her beautifully curated wardrobe. She styles four immaculate looks from her newly launched line, Hassal Official pairing the clothes with luxe accessories. Read on to see how she brings these looks to life
Neutrals are always classy and we love the details on this blouse. Sheer heels and a trendy bag make this whole ensemble a winner!
We love the subtlety and elegance of this black top. The laidback trousers give this look its comfortable vibe. A quilted black and gold bag and idiosyncratic cut out heels impart charm and edge
Monochrome seperates with spunky yet ladylike heels give this look its appeal. The Yves Klein blue Hermes clutch adds oomph to the whole image
We love how Salama pairs neutral and dark tones and makes the whole look come alive with fun shoes or a cool clutch! Sleek unfussy hair and just the right amount of poise give this whole outfita a timeless appeal
The philosophy of Hilal Silk has always been simple: To provide the finest quality Silk in Pakistan. For over seven decades, the heritage brand has produced finest quality hand woven silk, which due to its exquisite craftsmanship remains a favourite of bridal designers to this day. The fourth generation in the business, Talha Batla’s contribution to the brand has been to merge contemporary style with traditional silk-making technique. Talha tells Sana Zehra how the brand has evolved over the years
Who is Talha Batla?
I am actually the fourth generation in this business. It was started by my great grandfather in 1949 and then my family continued the legacy. Initially, my plan was not to join the family business but to be a corporate lawyer. I finished my ACCA and then my LLB, ready to enter the corporate world but God had other plans for me. In the summer of 2011, my grandfather asked me to computerize his accounting system. I had just given my final ACCA papers and was waiting for the result. I had already applied for LLB and thought it was a good way to apply my financial knowledge to my family’s business, while completing my second degree on the side. It took me six months to get customized software made and implement it. While developing the software I started to learn the other core operations of the business, like production and designing. I decided to continue with Hilal till I was done with my LLB. My law degree finished in 2014 but by then I had already decided that I love doing what I was already doing and after that, there was no looking back. I joined Hilal Silk and here I am, after seven years in the business already, being a major part of this amazing family heritage.
How has your brand evolved over the years?
In 70 years, we’ve grown from having one outlet to multiple ones across the country and from making only silk to offering a wide range of pure fabrics, along with the recent addition of couture.
Describe your line Talha Batla by Hilal Silk?
At Hilal Silk, we cater to everyone with different preferences and style sense from the masses to the classes. Talha Batla by Hilal Silk is my effort in bringing contemporary designs in bridal and handwork range, while keeping the traditional Hilal Silk style alive.
Do you sell any other fabric than silk?
We initially started with silk, now we offer chiffon, tissue, net, maisuri and embroidered fabrics.
What is the key difference between your silk and other silk available in the market?
We take great pride in our products as all silks are pure and produced on hand looms giving it the strength and durability that last for years. It’s superior in quality to anything else available in the market. And I’m sure everyone would agree
Does the brand believe in fair trade? How does your CSR (corporate social responsibility) differ from others in how you treat your employees?
The oldest employee we have at Hilal Silk has been working with us for the past 55 years, so you can imagine how well we treat our employees. Once they work with us they never leave us. We believe in fair trade and are working very closely to streamline it better.
What is your source of inspiration?
Inspiration for me can come from anything. Nature, i.e. birds, flowers, and their colours inspire me. The most recent inspiration I had, came from a carpet in a mosque, the colours were so beautifully blended that it gave me the idea for a new design.
If you’d choose to dress any celebrity who would it be and why?
Being in this industry, you get a chance every now and then to dress up celebrities. We usually work with easter wear. If I had to choose one celebrity to dress it would be Sushmita Sen because of the grace and elegance with which she carries her clothes.
Favourite all time designer?
There are many, to name a few Alexander McQueen’s work really inspires me. For eastern wear, Dr. Haroon and Sabyasachi have to be my favourites.
What are the key trends for bridal and wedding wear for the upcoming season?
Bridal is all about colours and cuts. Sadly, embellishement takes the back seat. But to me, people have finally started understanding what intricate work is and how it can enhance the look of the whole outfit. So if you ask me, people who are just using big stones and thick (mota) dabka are so last season because people want intricacy and that’s what bridal wear this season should be.
What trends would you like to see die?
One trend which I really want to see die is Angarkha cut in bridal dresses. I just hate seeing Angarkhas for bridals, it just kills it for me.
What do you hope to see more of from designers in bridal and wedding wear this season?
I want designers to experiment more with colours. Sticking with red for the wedding day needs to go. It’s so overdone
What is coming up this season? ?
Our next line is coming by the end of September. It’s a modern take on some of the most traditional dresses, like saris. We also have fresh looking Nikkah outfits.
Will we see Hilal Silk in fashion shows and changing its marketing style from old school to contemporary?
Frankly, Hilal Silk doesn’t need marketing. It has been the going strong with word of mouth for decades now and I don’t think it’s going to be any different in the future. Although you might see Talha Batla by Hilal Silk changing the game and creating a niche.
By Eman Bandey
Designers are rethinking this classic as it has become a major 2018 trend. Get a silk scarf that you can use in multiple ways, including as a a bag strap or even as a nontraditional ankle strap!
This season’s totes are well quite super-sized, which I’m not complaining about. They’re perfect for travel and for the woman who’s always on the go.
Opt for hands-free with all the fanny packs and necklace pouchettes. Best for men and women who are always doing something. Some are too small to even fit your cards but other can fit the necessities.
Designers have spared no expense when it comes to jewellery. Let’s just say right now bigger = better. With floor scraping earrings and gigantic necklaces, this trend calls for confidence and unapologetic boldness.
Ditch your phone and keep your hands warm. At least that’s what designers are hoping for. Gloves are available in all different colours and lengths but for those who are glued to their phones, Chanel is selling fingerless ones similar to those Karl Lagerfeld alway wears.
Chunky and ornate cuffs are stylish for many reasons, one being they look like a work of art. Wearable art is on trend in the fashion industry. They’re an easy way of incorporating jewel tones and exotic motifs into otherwise basic looks.
A simple modification on a tried and true accessory that looks radically original. Elegant, there’s something decisive of this look. The long and dangling varieties sweep the collarbone and create a romantic asymmetry.
Leopard print accessories have been gaining popularity. This might not be everyone’s favourite print but opt for a smaller accessory in this print and test it out.
An updated and industrial spin on the classic belt! Chunky hardware and straps give a belt an extra dimension of texture and infuse it with an urbane sensibility. It can transform any look like the classic turtleneck and jeans combo and endow a simple outfit with an upscale mood.
1. Folklore
This bistro conveniently located at one end of M.M. Alam Road provides an excellent spot to refresh you after you’ve hit the boutiques. The food is actually delicious, flavourful and well priced. What’s not to like?
2. Divine
Green Tea Face Wash
is a must have to keep
your skin fresh and
hydrated. Enriched with green tea and aloe vera,
the wash gives your
skin that radiant glow.
To read more: www.duvistockholm.com.pk
3. Naturals
Naturals brings fresh & healthy food for you and your family. Shop for organic products, dine in at Flavors Cafe and experience live grinding of premium natural flours and spices at 229 FF Commercial Market, Phase IV DHA, Lahore. Check it out on facebook/instagram/twitter/snapchat @naturalspk.”
Singer/actress/TV host, Komal Rizvi has been in showbiz since the age of 16. Not only has she starred in hit serials and been a popular VJ but she also sung the oft played bhangra ditty Baooji back in ‘97, as well as pop and folk songs since then. Rizvi is all set to make a comeback with her new release Hello Ji. Komal tells Sana Zehra what it’s like being a female singer in Pakistan
Does Hello Ji have a message you want to share with your fans?
Yes, indeed. Hello Ji stands for all those people who love doing something or love someone but fear failure or rejection. The message in this song is that times have changed, don’t fear anyone or anything.
“Jo kehna hai kaho ji†(Say whatever you have to say.)
You have been described as “outspoken, energetic, bubbly†and as an “an all-rounder.†What do you feel when you hear people describing you in these terms?
I really don’t consider myself outspoken at all. I suppose it’s all relative. There are so many things I would like to talk about but I have to be politically correct for the sake of my family or the society. But yes, I am energetic and bubbly and that’s how I would like to remain always — positive and happy. Life is too short to take yourself too seriously.
The music industry still seems to be largely dominated by men. Do you think the industry is afraid of strong and independent women? If yes, how does it show? What are some personal experiences you have in this regard?
The industry is changing, but super slowly. It’s about time women artistes should be taken more seriously. We have to work harder. It’s true that women are dealt a lot of “Get out of jail free†cards. So being a woman has both advantages and disadvantages. I, for one, am extremely proud of being a woman. I would not have wanted it any other way.
Do you Google yourself or read what the internet has to say about you or do you feel like it’s better to not pay attention to these things?
Mostly, I try to not hear or read too much criticism because it does take a toll on my level of optimism and motivation, but it’s very hard to not be aware of any trolling whatsoever. Someone or the other in the industry feels the need to make you aware of your failings eventually.
You travel a lot for work. How do you keep your work-life balance?
Since I only work, and spend all my free time with the family, I sometimes have to really force myself to have some “Me†time. In fact, I have now made it a ritual to keep my mornings to myself. It has made a huge difference in my life and my state of mind. My meditation and my riyaaz is key to my inner peace and sanity.
How has your musical journey shaped you in becoming who you are today?
I shape my musical journey. My musical journey does not shape me.
Do you have someone special in your life?
Not yet!
What is one of the biggest misconceptions about you?
That I am a snob
Were any of your songs written to symbolize any life event?
I have over 100 released songs over the course of my career. So yes, a lot of them I have written and composed are relevant to an event in my life.
How do you feel about the way people interpret your songs?
At the moment I’m doing light, fun songs because I believe this country needs some women doing music that can uplift the mood. At some point, I want to do serious music too, but I’m not into the mood for that just yet.
What has been the most enjoyable song you have sung and why?
I like singing Tu Beh Gaya a lot. Rock ballads are just up my alley.
Ever considered joining a band?
Nope
What is your favourite song that isn’t your own?
Unchained Melodies
Any message for your fans?
Stay positive. Keep learning, self-improving and challenging yourself. Grow. Become a light for yourself and others. Stay strong. Stay cool. Pakistan Zindabad!
Mahlia S. Lon
There’s a rich tradition of passing down a craft from generation to generation in most cultures; a collective consciousness that we inherit as well as a diffused learning that we unconsciously pick up growing up in a specific environment, apart from the more obvious one of being taught at our elders’ knees. Many young people rebel and want to go in a different direction from their forefathers, which is their choice, but there are others who choose to carry on in the family tradition. How do they put the stamp of their own individuality on the family business per se is the question we pose to two young men in this issue. Ahad Raza Mir, starring in his first feature film Parwaaz Hai Junoon, tells us how being the son of actor Asif Raza Mir and grandson of Raza Mir, director and Pakistan’s first cinematographer, helps him get his foot in the door but his professionalism is ultimately what helps him prove himself. In a similar vein, Talha Batla got his LLB in the hopes of being a corporate lawyer, but the tug of the family business pulled him in. He is the fourth generation at the helm of heritage brand Halal Silk, his great grandfather having started the business in 1949. Talha tells us how he is maintaining the company’s strengths and loyal clientele while adding his contemporary spin via a new fashion line.
There’s always a moral to all our stories. Hope you enjoy these and other features we have prepared for you!