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Passionate, young artist Eman F. Khan’s highly accomplished compositions convey a sense of lightness and purity, like a reflective daydream. Eman tells Afshan Shafi about all aspects of her vision

Please tell us about your background as an artist and your education in this regard. 

Ever since I can recall I’ve been extremely fond of art; I can’t remember if there was any one thing in particular that initiated this passion, only that it’s been a powerful constant. From doodling in textbooks, notebooks and even on my hands and arms in school (definitely not a concept liked by my parents and teachers), I found a delightful fluidity in watercolour paintings (during O/A Levels at Lahore Grammar School DHA). With a vested interest in portraits and the human form, I really enjoyed discovering the colour and detail that goes into a painting. Nearing the end of my secondary schooling I applied for Graphic Design courses in the UK and got accepted to Central Saint Martins, which is part of the University of the Arts London, for a foundation diploma (2013-14). So I started a new chapter in my sketchbook, being thrown into an array of quick yet taxing projects that awakened an impromptu creativity in me I never knew existed. Getting a distinction at CSM, I then started my undergraduate degree (BA) at UAL, at the London College of Communication (2014-17) soon after. The next three years were a mix of great achievements and terrible projects, which I feel really shaped who I am as a person, my work as an artist and my hope to excel as a professional.

Which artists, local or international, have influenced or informed your point of view the most?

I’ve always been drawn to Frida Kahlo, not just as an artist but as a woman who literally was her work; she was an advocate for knowing herself best, and making her life into a work of art (in her actions, opinions, fashion and obviously paintings). I love her because she was a true artist, a woman who defied gender stereotypes, but most of all a woman who embraced being different and weird. Frida Kahlo rose above being “the wife of” Diego Rivera, and forged herself into an icon of strength and a fierce symbol of female empowerment. In my opinion her achievement will never be erased, and in my life it will always be a driving force to remind me who I am and where I come from above all else.

What has been a seminal, life changing experience in terms of your art? 

Someone I knew once told me while I was struggling to create, “Don’t think, just do.” Being of sound mind I obviously didn’t listen to that advice because when you tell someone (specifically me) not to think, I end up thinking even more. The weight of those words hit me some time later in a moment of epiphany—the times I create most freely were the times when I doodled with music on in the background, or when I wasn’t really concentrating too much on my illustration. I was only aware of creating, but neither over thinking the process nor the end product.  It’s a reminder to trust my instincts and create first, worry later.

“Don’t think, just do”

Which of your creations are you most attached to and why? 

favourite child (as in the memorable Meryl Streep tear jerker Sophie’s Choice), some may have been created better than others but in the end you love them all the same.

What themes do you find yourself drawn towards most often in your art? 

From the progression of my more recent works (and even picking from older compositions, etc.) my work includes a heavy theme of psychology and traces of philosophy. From concepts like mental health to mind wandering to solipsism, my work ordinarily takes on an abstract, occasionally a surreal and often a dark turn into the unseen workings of the mind.

If you could travel back in time to an era in art history which period would you choose and why? 

While I feel this current age we call Artistic Pluralism is a testament to the ever present evolution of art, if I could travel back I would have loved to experience the early age of Modernism (late 19th to early 20th century), more specifically the transition period from Neoclassical to Modernism. Artists like Claude Monet, Frida Kahlo, Edvard Munch and many more were important factors in creating a new identity in the world. It was the shift of not just of a style of art, but it propelled a shift in an entire mind-set; a way of thinking, a rejection of the norm with the moral destruction per se of a system of religion and structure, and is a movement we’re still experiencing the shockwaves of today. It was as if the world was being rediscovered entirely, and is definitely something I would have liked to have experienced in person.

What is your dream project? 

I think one of my many dream projects would be to be involved in a campaign for educating people and improving the conditions of climate change presently. Concepts like 350 Earth tackle the awareness of climate change through international involvement, and I would definitely like to be involved in something similar.

Which work of art do you wish you owned? 

Quite literally anything made by Shahzia Sikander! I’m absolutely in love with her composition, colour and form.

Whose portrait would you love to make?

Jean Michel Basquiat—his entire aesthetic calls for a super colourful, creative and urban mixed-media portrait.

Which artists living or dead would you have loved to collaborate with?

I would have loved to collaborate with Frida Kahlo, studied her art form and her use of symbolism. I’m also interested in how she conveyed her perspective of the human form and the vivid surrealism of her expression.

most memorable responses you have had to your work?

This is so incredibly cheesy I almost wasn’t going to write it, but my mother told me a while ago that she couldn’t wait for my A-level paintings to come back from Cambridge so that she could frame them and put them up all around the house.

And I know because she’s my Ma she HAS to say she loves my work (haha), but I know she genuinely meant it when she said that and it still is a great feeling.

What are you working on as a future project?

Right now as a more personal project I’m in the process of creating a series of images based on psychology and abstract surrealism, trying to get back in touch with fine art and continuing themes I’ve worked on in my undergraduate degree.

As for the future I have a few ideas of motion pictures that will continue on the same theme. I’m building a site where prints of my work and maybe even original pieces would be up for sale, so it is something to watch out for if you find my work interesting.

An up and coming designer, Iqra set foot into the fashion world after getting hired by a notable designer. After working for a couple of years, she eventually left her job and took the plunge, starting her own label for luxury prêt wear by the name of Juella, a successful brand available at PFDC Mall One. But one brand wasn’t enough for this driven young woman, so this year she launched a bridal wear label by the name of Iq’Aysh, which she co-owns with a friend. 

Iqra is a graduate of PIFD (Pakistan institute of Fashion Design). Given her immaculate sense of design, Iqra has a tête-à-tête with Arshia Nisar regarding fashion

You started off by working for a fashion designer. What made you leave that label and venture into your own?

I loved my first job but eventually I guess you need to make a mark of your own and in order to get the freedom of designing the way you want, reflecting your personal sense of design, you need to break through your comfort zone and start your own brand.

With no connections in the fashion industry, it must be a difficult feat. What were some of the hurdles that you had to face along the way?

I guess for someone as private as me, not having the required PR has been the only hurdle, but I’ve seen that good work doesn’t go unnoticed for long. Working with as professional an organization as PFDC you’re bound to get noticed and make your mark.

Iq’Aysh is a completely separate brand having no association with Juella. Why did you feel the need to launch a brand completely dedicated to bridal wear?

Iq’Aysh is a more high-end label that I have started off with a dear friend Ayesha. The main focus and hence our target audience comprises of brides-to-be. With Iq’Aysh we wanted to go all out on our bridal wear and that meant an amalgamation of our individual aesthetics to bring out the best possible product.

Clients often like to add their own suggestions to the dresses they want to get made. Has a client ever changed a design to the extent that the original design was completely destroyed?

Yes, clients do tend to have a mind of their own and I’ve learnt to respect that to a certain extent but thankfully I haven’t had any bad experiences as of yet.

You must have daily interactions with brides-to-be and hence their endless demands to make their bridal dress perfect. However have you ever had to deal with a complete bridezilla?

I think it is totally normal for the brides to feel like they have to be in control of what they end up wearing. I always recommend they stick to the sample design because nobody wants an unwanted surprise at the last moment.

Trends in Pakistan tend to follow international ones. Even though the dresses might have a desi outlook, you can see Western trends hidden amidst the folds of fabric. Name 2 international designers who, in your opinion, have set the trend for this season.

I think Elie Saab and Reem Acra do influence the local wedding wear fashion trends to a great extent.

Currently which designers inspire you the most?

Personally, I love the clean cuts and minimalistic work by Zac Posen; however, the details and cuts by Monique Lhuilier and Ralph Russo are ethereal! From across the border, I think Gaurav Gupta is pretty inspiring.

The designers you named are all international, none of them are Pakistani. Any particular reason you chose all non-Pakistani designers?

I absolutely love some of the local designers and the local trends you pick from them. But I don’t focus on their work so much lest it starts to influence my own style of work.

What fashion trends do you see making it big this season?

The sleeve details seem to be quite a highlight this spring with cut-out shoulders, slits and gathers a stand out this season.

A piece of advice you’d like to give to aspiring designers.

Well I’d say, stay original and be confident about your work.

Founder Eman Bachani talks about how her khussas are taking off globally

A girl can never have enough shoes, and we at GT are compulsive shoe-a-holics! The latest label to catch our eye is the funky and bohemian Meraki Design House. Brand founder Eman Bachani, who herself designs  Meraki’s khussas for the international market, catches up with Afshan Shafi to discuss her inspirations, favourite shoe designers and more!

How did you decide on this name for your brand ? tell us more about the team behind Meraki.

Meraki is an untranslatable Greek expression, which means to do something with soul, creativity and love, leaving a piece of yourself in what you create. As I was completing my initial research, I came across so many names but nothing resonated with what I envisioned the brand to be the way Meraki did. The goal for the brand has always been being equally focused on craftsmanship as on showcasing and delivering high quality one of a kind products – and Meraki highlights exactly that.My production team and I are working tirelessly with artisans around the world to bring the best products to our consumers. Other than that we’ve got our PR & communications coordinator who is always making sure that our customers know what we’re up to and how they can find us!

My production team and I are working tirelessly with artisans around the world to bring the best products to our consumers. Other than that we’ve got our PR & communications coordinator who is always making sure that our customers know what we’re up to and how they can find us!

Who are the creative inspirations for your brand?
I have been inspired more by my surroundings than anything else! This is reflected deeply in Meraki products as I have drawn inspiration from Eastern culture and crafts, which are extremely vibrant yet undermined in the West.

Who are your three favourite shoe designers anywhere in the world and why?
Sophia Webster – Other than her distinctive style, I am in love with how she has struck a balance between ‘wow’ and wearable.

Her signature Evangeline shoes are definitely on my list!

Aquazurra – They’re so perfectly tailored for the modern woman and can work in both day or the night, – also I can vouch for them being the absolute comfiest!

Christian Louboutin – Though this may sound clichéd, but his shoes entail a simplicity that just can’t be duplicated

Your dream shoe purchase?
All the Meraki shoes I have yet to make!

Who would you like to see wearing Meraki?
Every GirlBoss that has inspired me to build something that I can call my own; Sophia Amuroso, Whitney Wolfe, Sara Blakely to name a few!

Top five shoes in your own closet?
All my Meraki shoes!

Who is the ultimate Meraki woman?
I think every woman can be the ultimate Meraki woman so long as she dares to be different…

What’s next for your brand?
At the moment, we are working on a new line of accessories for next year. I have a few other tricks up my sleeve, but you’ll just have to wait and see!

 

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