By Saba Ahmed
Generation takes a bold step to reconquer the fashion trailblazer they used to be. Coming out with contemporary cuts and daring pattern work, Generation gives prêt lines a run for their money. Presenting something for everyone and of all ages, the pieces are equally fitting for a black tie soiree, a shaadi event, and a casual brunch.
Generation’s intimate sneak peek, hosted spectacularly by Generation’s Khadija Rahman, was a charming affair complete with melon balls, gelato, light swing music and an artistic fervour captured in a mood video. This new collection takes its inspiration from nature and the elements. The symbolism of animal instinct and elemental potential energy is worked in the outfits with meticulous innovation.
Rocks and marbling, tortoise shells, moth wings, cow skins, ink blots and leopard prints have been re-read, a decisive step away from your average cheetah print shalwar kameez
Rocks and marbling, tortoise shells, moth wings, cow skins, ink blots and leopard prints all have been re-read, a decisive step away from your average cheetah print shalwar kameez. Each texture and pattern is worked in a different craft, each local and indigenous, yet used in a new way. The reptilian scales become funky in silver and purple hues of mukaish and the detail in the moth’s wings become the embellishment for wide leg pants in appliqué and multiple embroideries. Everything from gota, mukaish, and haath ka tanka to ralli and kaanta has been employed to bring to life these outfits.
The denim pieces use fabric created exclusively for this collection by Generation itself. Denim has been worked with mukaish again and custom created cut-work patterns with experiments in prints and washes. “With the new cuts, it’s just fun to do a slightly different line,†says Khadija. There are variations too from ramp to rack, showing to audiences and fashion newbies the recommended pairing and styling of certain pieces. Especially, as Khadija explains, for cholis, there are many a fashion faux pas and queries relating to what to wear them with, the catwalk helps to clear misgivings. Equally important, Generation gives a wide variety to its shoppers — a certain piece can be found with and without sleeves on the rack, for example — and this is the hallmark of Generation’s lasting success.
What is your idea of style for the modern woman?
The modern woman is strong, independent and doesn’t want to get boxed into a single style. She needs clothes that look trendy, fresh and yet don’t make too much of a dent in the wallet. It’s great to see so many of the young generation have individual styles these days. Whether it is uber glam, high street or bohemian it’s refreshing to witness women hold their own and not necessarily be “on trend.†That is why when Saira and I started Saaya, we sought inspiration from a range of things so we could create a brand that would appeal to different women from various walks of life
Which living person do you most admire for his or her signature style?
From the West I love Emma Watson. Her style has really evolved and it is now effortlessly chic. At our end I think Fawad Khan has emerged as an icon in more ways than one
What trait do you most admire in people?
Humility. I truly believe that if any artistic creation is executed with love and sincerity then it should carry its own weight without any need for arrogance or boastfulness
“It’s refreshing to witness women hold their own and not necessarily be “on trendâ€
What is your greatest extravagance?
Currently all I want to spend money on is travel. It is so fascinating to see the differences and similarities among people of different cultures. I find traveling gives me the most amount of inspiration when designing for Saaya. For example I was so fascinated with dervishes from Turkey; they inspired us to create our tunics with images of twirling dervishes, which to date is one of our favorite designs
What is your favorite journey?
I recently took a trip up north with my husband and son and I was just blown away. Too many of us focus our attention on traveling abroad when we have heaven in our own back yard. I met the friendliest people and encountered the most beautiful scenery. It truly made me proud to be a Pakistani
What do you consider the most overrated virtue?
Conformity. I think people appear most beautiful when they take fashion trends and blend them with their own unique style. I love it when people wear Saaya kameezes and make it their own. I’ve seen two women wearing the exact same kameez, but because of their distinctive flare the outfit looked completely different: that’s the beauty of being your own person
How are you using your medium to promote and maintain Pakistan’s culture?
I have been lucky enough to be part of a field where one can really promote what is most positive about us. Clothes from the subcontinent are by far the most beautiful in the world. I am always stunned by the sheer raw talent and dexterity of our kaarigars. In this way I am so grateful that I can use my work to showcase Pakistani culture. Whether it’s a block print of a twirling dervish, Urdu scripture or an embroidered elephant or rickshaw, giving your clothes an eastern touch always proves to be a winner!
What is your greatest achievement?
I would have to say Saaya. It had always been our dream to create a brand which made affordable and trendy outfits for women with eclectic tastes. Despite some challenges Saira and I were able to launch the brand in March 2013 and we overwhelmed with the response. It has been an amazing journey so far! No matter how much hard work we put in or how frustrating the process gets on occasion, Saaya always provides us with a sense of achievement and satisfaction. We can’t wait to see it grow further
Which words or phrases do you most overuse?
Live and let live. Life is too short to judge someone else’s journey. (I wish more people in Pakistan would embrace this motto!)
Name an item in your wardrobe you can’t do without.
These days its definitely a pair of gold cork wedges. You can wear them in the day with a casual outfit or spruce up an evening ensemble by slipping them on. They look great with both eastern and western outfits
Name three things in your handbag that are always there.
Chapstick, mobile phone and a measuring tape.
What in future do you consider your greatest achievement?
I would be delighted if Saaya became a brand that people associated with fashion and affordability — a brand which provides something for everyone and for all occasions. We are currently working on a more semi-formal, formal line which we hope to launch some time this year
What or who is the greatest love of your life?
Without a doubt my son and my sister. I’m obsessed with both of them. It might sound clichéd but no matter how hard my day is or whatever may have transpired, when I see Ali, it puts a smile on my face.
With my sister Saira, it’s like we are two sides of the same coin. She completely gets where I’m coming from without me having to articulate it. I’m very fortunate to have these people in my life
If you were to die and come back as a person or thing, what do you think it would be?
I would have to say the Dalai Lama. I love his peaceful and positive attitude towards life. It’s something truly worth emulating
“I am lucky to be part of a field where one can promote what is most positive about Pakistan”
What are the challenges in keeping ready-to-wear fashion affordable?
Unfortunately conducting any type of business in a place like Karachi is a challenge. One is always losing working days because of civil unrest, strikes, national holidays etc. Adding to that the hardships faced by employees have to be accounted for as well. This leads to a lot of unforeseen variable costs. But one has to power through these issues and churn out a product that one is proud of and that is worth the price
What inspired you to subtly westernise the eastern ensemble?
It all depends on the market you are catering for. I want to wear ensembles that are traditional but have a modern twist and that is why at Saaya you won’t find out-and-out ethnic pieces. They have a very strong western element. I think that is one of our strengths. We integrate local handiwork and materials with a western twist. I’m not a big fan of the word ‘fusion’ but in essence that’s what it is
What advice would you like to give the teenage girl who looks towards making a mark in the fashion industry?
Think Big. With the right talent, handwork, and dedication I think any dream is possible and no goal is unachievable. We have so many examples of designers who started out in small workshops and today are the biggest names in the industry. It’s truly inspiring.
Considering that women in Pakistan are now rapidly entering the work environment what in your mind makes for a good work attire?
At Saaya we always have the working woman in mind. That is why many of our ready-to-wear cottons are simple, chic and affordable. Working women need outfits which allow them to exude confidence, through comfortable yet trendy cuts, colours and fabrics. We try to find that blend in our cotton line which proved to be very popular
As a woman, what difficulties have you faced in starting your venture? Please mention anyone who stands out in their support in helping your work.
Fortunately we didn’t face many difficulties in starting Saaya. The credit for that definitely goes to our husbands and our parents. Our friends and employees have all been bastions of strength in their own way. They have each contributed to making Saaya what it is. The fact is that without the backing of all the people in your life it is impossible to build a business.
The GT challenge: if you were asked to redesign the uniform for the ladies of our national airline, what would you do?
I think it’s definitely time to spruce up the uniform. Add an interesting print and make it a nicer shade of green. Also I would suggest a shorter kameez with a straight pant. In the 70s the uniform was kind of like that
Text & coordination | Marium Ali Khan
Photography | Gibran Jamshed
Syeda Amera is fresh faced with the collected demeanor of a genuinely cool person. Upon meeting her, I notice there’s nothing gushy, no flowery welcomes or flourishes. She has the calm confidence of a talented person who knows that her work speaks for itself. Having received rave reviews and tons of international press, Amera made it back home to chat with us about the floating catwalk on the Hudson River in NYC where she showcased her latest collection.
How did you get started with your work?
I started my work in 2008. It was a sudden decision taken based on the support and encouragement I received from family and my friends in the media. They all kept telling me how great my own outfits looked (which I used to design myself) and that I should take up fashion designing professionally. Gradually, I started getting offers from mall owners and retail spaces to open up my own store. It was just so spectacular for me, I was so young at the time, just 16 and still doing my O Levels! Initially, my success was just God-gifted and it was only later that I polished my skills and took courses in fashion from France and Singapore. After that I never looked back.
Are you more interested in bridals or prêt?
Technically I do luxury prêt, but I would say that my work is not exactly prêt — that’s heavily dictated by market concerns. I also do heavy couture dresses which are totally western and contemporary in their styles and cuts. I don’t do desi bridals which are typically for shaadis and nikkahs. I do make outfits for engagements and valimas for the adventurous fashion-forward bride. Basically I only really take on projects where I don’t feel artistically restrained.
I make outfits for engagements and nikkahs for the adventurous fashion-forward bride
Tell us about your production and design processes?
We all take inspiration from things. In the case of the recent fashion show in NYC, I took inspiration from the sea. We used colors like sea greens, aqua and all shades of blues. For the embellishments, we used pearls and crystals and created transparent flowy looks. Our inspirations keep varying so it depends on what we want to showcase and of course on the season and current trends.
For production, we start off with a sketch. We then get together all the materials, cloth, embellishments, etc. that we shortlist to go with the desired look in the sketch and then proceed to make a 5 to 10″ sample. We then get into pattern cutting, superimpose the sample onto the pattern and then follow several processes of trial and error to end up with the perfect piece.
What’s it like designing for the ramp and entering the real fashion market?
The clothes I’m making nowadays are all mostly red carpet style gowns and cocktail dresses but still very wearable. And everyone who’s walking the red carpet nowadays is constantly trying something different. I also personally believe that increasingly the gap between reality and ramp will become negligible.
Tell us about your most recent show at the floating catwalk on Hudson River?
It was such a great experience, a dream come true. The cream of the fashion world from all across the globe saw my collection being walked down the ramp. There were reporters and fashion writers and bloggers from every notable fashion magazine. We were featured in Tattler, Vogue and Glamour. Not only was all this exposure such a treat but getting to see so many other very talented designers’ works on the ramp was incredible.
Increasingly the gap between reality and ramp will become negligible
This collection is said to have been inspired by the sea. Can you tell us how you worked it?
The color forecasting for 2015 was all muted and particularly lots of blues and aqua and sea greens. And since our inspiration was the sea, it teamed up perfectly for us. The pearls were something that just fit and crystals and sparkle will never be out of fashion!
What materials/techniques do you like to use in your work?
I mostly use net — net that’s been mixed with some organza works perfectly for a beautiful, ethereal feminine look. And when you work with transparencies, net works so well since most other translucent materials such as chiffons don’t hold up work and embellishments as well. This fabric has a wonderful delicateness and yet a structure of its own. For my next collection, I’m planning to work with organza.
If you were to characterize yourself within the industry, do you have a particular identity?
Everyone tells me always that I have a really international kind of look. Mostly everyone in Pakistan is doing very traditional looking work with lots of kaam, etc. You could say that my work is feminine yet cutting edge as far as fashion is concerned.
Where is your client base located?
We currently stock in three different locations: Dubai, Chicago and London. Our buyers there mostly buy in bulk and then resell to their clients and I don’t know who they are! Since we are from here, we try to maintain a strong client base in Pakistan too.
