Saba Ahmed talks to director Amin Iqbal
Q) What memories do you have of your first directing experience?
A) Terrible ones. It seemed as if I had taken on a whole lot of enemies in the industry. I started out my career as a screenwriter and that is what I had wanted to do at the time. I have even written 14 odd serials that went on air and were huge productions. I did all kinds of screenwriting, for telefilms, documentaries, feature writing for newspapers and I did some for BBC as well. Then one day I woke up with the feeling that what I wrote did not come across the way I wanted it to. That is when I started to direct. The trouble was that when I did start directing, I was afraid that no other director would want me to write scripts for them and this threatened me and made me feel insecure from a financial point of view since writing was my bread and butter then.
Q) What have been your favorite serials so far of the ones that you have worked on?
A) Thakan featuring Saba Qamar was one serial I particularly enjoyed, it has aired on Zindagi in India and I have received tremendous feedback. Many people were impressed by the sets used, little did they know that the serial was not shot on set. Teri Rah main Rull Gai was also a big hit, the title song was fabulous and is one that is close to me. It was an innovator in terms of the shooting and production values used. Dil Fareb on GEO these days, I thoroughly enjoyed because the art direction it employs is quite different than usual. It has a fresh look using emerging, versatile actors, Omair Rana and Mira Sethi and then Alia Butt for whom this was a debut performance. We worked closely on the nuances of the acting — stress pauses and the like — and all this has resonated with audiences who have reported back that this serial definitely has a certain freshness to it. Another one, it didn’t do well, Dil Muhalay Ki Haveli, but I loved the concept. The story was centered on food and how people in our society are fanatical about food. The kind of atmosphere and psychosis this fanaticism about food creates within a household is what this serial was about.
Apart from this, Agar Ho Sakay To is currently on air. There’s one particular scene which I told my wife makes me want to cry and when watching it with her the other day, I actually did start crying, to which she said to me, “Not only do you give your heart to every serial you direct but to this one, you have also given your tears.†It’s very emotional and it resonated so much with me that I felt compelled to write the lyrics to the title song myself.
“I learnt to love very early on and I love very intenselyâ€
Q) How do you feel differently about filming on set versus on location?
A) Almost all directors in the private sector in Pakistan have not experienced working on set. The set can almost be regarded as the sole domain of PTV. When they started making dramas, there were sets in use for films which were created specifically for films. You need timing, lighting and peace to create a certain mood. You would create a time of day. When this line of work opened up to the private sector, they had no opportunities to make sets. They were compelled to go to original locations and do one-camera shoots which led them to have to move things around. For example, if we are featuring a certain character who smokes a hookah, we would have much trouble finding a house that is reflective of this character’s social status and is also designed around the lifestyle and needs of a hookah smoker.
We in the private sector, who have developed like mushrooms, have not had the experience of working with sets and neither has any relevant talent developed over the years. PTV has not maintained its standard and propagated knowledge and skill as it should or was on the path to being. Neither did they utilize their stage, their academy and their huge library of archives to develop new talent. I was particularly ashamed to hear that my son didn’t know who Munoo Bhai (of Sona Chandi fame) was.
Only now are there classes of schooled graduates coming out in the various fields of sets, wardrobes, lights, art direction, sounds, etc. Even in the private sector, on location, we are beginning to personalize locations and bring in props to fit our requirements, employing the skilled expertise of today.
Q) Any people in the industry you think are particularly talented?
A) Almost everyone in any industry in Pakistan possesses a fair bit of talent and the drive to want to show the world by doing something. As opposed to other nationalities where motivation and ambition is mainly derived from getting raises or promotions, our nation still considers itself young and in need of that extra mile. I still remember holding out a cloth in front of the TV screen while watching CNN to be able to get in all the censored bits! Our country is in a constant state of flux, and we have as a nation learnt to adapt and have become stronger and more resourceful as a result. Even in our industry, technicians have learnt to become cameramen and vice versa because everyone has conditioned themselves to make do with what they have. Teams come in from India and elsewhere and are impressed to see what kind of an environment we work in when compared to the work we put out. All these attributes are worth mentioning.
I have always made it a point to work with new people, Sohail Sameer is someone whose career began with me along with Yumna Zaidi, Mira Sethi and Irfan Waheed: I’ve thoroughly enjoyed working with them. And the list does go on. Most newcomers from Lahore are people that I have worked with and are chosen by me mainly because our chemistries match. There will always be two to three actors making debut performances in any of my dramas.
Despite the lack of support, our TV actors are excellent and achieve high level performances without the use of any gimmicks.
A cherished moment with all his cast and crew
Ready to start filming for APlus
On the set of Dil Fareb with Omair Rana and Mira Sethi
My wife said to me:
“Not only do you give your heart to every serial you direct but to this one, you have also given your tearsâ€
Q) Are scripts becoming less important?
A) Thirty years ago, we did have great scripts and legendary scriptwriters, but since then screenwriting and star screenwriters have kind of fallen off the grid. Additionally, screenwriting is a product of the society in which it is born. And there has been constant upheaval and censorship here in Pakistan. Screenwriters have not received much support, recognition or compensation through the years. Even in other fields of work, who in the past 20 odd years has been nominated for any major international award such as the Nobel Prize? Everyone seems to have the attitude: “why should I be the martyr?” or “why bother?”
Even so, we’ve been able to take the drama market from 1.5 crores to 9 billion rupees where today 108 channels are on air with licenses whereas the cable operator is only capable of showing 80 channels. Still, the fact that over the past 2 years, scripts have been being repeated is not solely the fault of the writers but also the channels that have a tight hold on creative output.
Q) How do you source talent in Pakistan?
A) Some friends of ours and myself have gotten together to set up a platform for recruiting talent specifically for television. The website should be up and running by the end of the week. It has the format and capacity for interested candidates to set up their profiles where casting can be done from. It will also help us to pick out more specifically cast members who are appropriate for certain roles more so than the actors that are already in the circle and are well known to us already.
It will also help us to navigate problems associated with auditioning. Every second on set is paid for and when we have newcomers come to the set to audition, it takes up some of our very valuable and expensive time. In Fast and the Furious 7 which was recently in cinemas, they have an Arab character for which they have cast an Indian. Pakistanis are much closer in looks and speech to Arabs than Indians but since the casting directors of this film did not know where to look for Pakistani talent, they found it from where they could.
On Chundrigar Rd.
while filming Bewafaii Tumhare Naam
On the set of Agar Ho Sakay To with Syed Jibran & Sunita Marshall
With Iffat Omar and Yasir Nawaz on the set of Bewafai Tumhare Naam
Q) Why aren’t comedies, children’s shows and other neglected genres given as much importance anymore?
A) At first, it was PTV only and as a national institution, PTV was obliged to run all types of genres. There are no channels showing the various cultures of Pakistan or featuring any classic music programs. We are being restricted to a singular language, culture and religion, even though our alternate media on the internet is mounting increasing pressure on mainstream channels to diversify the content they broadcast. If no one raises their voice and demands something different, then the channel showing the same thing over and over again that is getting them the highest ratings will continue doing so. It’s important for the public to share their point of view and demand better and diversified content.
Q) What is your greatest weakness?
A) I learnt to love very early on and I love very intensely. You can call it a weakness or strength, either way, I have gained and learnt much from it.
The other is my little daughter, she is the apple of my eye.
A 13 year younger Amin Iqbal at a workshop
On the set of Anokhi with Mona Liza
Q) What is your greatest extravagance?
A) It can’t really be something I spend money on since I never get time to spend money anywhere. My schedule is nonstop, almost 7 days a week, 17 hours a day and that too with transit between Lahore and Karachi. I’ve written once: kamaata koi hain, khaata koi and that is the case with my wife and I. This was the case with my father and his father, I guess it is just the circle of life.
Q) How is your ideal day off spent?
A) As you can see, I don’t get many days off but anytime I get to speak with my mother or my wife is great for me and almost 5-7 times a day. Otherwise, anytime I get to spend with my kids is ideal. I was an only child and I have six kids. I love to play and get up to silly nothings, jumping around, throwing water, taking ice and slipping it down someone’s back, yelling, whatever.
How would you describe your personal style?
Comfort first! In terms of my clothing, it’s relatively classic and simple for the most part. My thing is cool jackets and accessorizing, I splurge on these two. My style does change according to my environment: if I’m on vacation I’ll tend to put more “outfits†together. In my daily life I have to be comfortable and not worry about creasing or something being too tight or too short. I’m more of a jeans and trousers kind of girl as opposed to dresses and skirts. I don’t keep up with trends, but if there’s something that catches my eye that I like then I’ll definitely go for it. For example the fringe trend in fashion — I bought some fringe jackets, and although they’re “trending†it’s sort of a classic trend, the kind of thing that I’ll hold on to and will always look great to me.
My go-to outfit is a pair of skinny jeans or leather trousers (also love a good boyfriend jean) and t-shirt with a cool jacket, paired with either sneakers or heels and some great arm candy and a shoulder-strap bag. I always say, as long as my hair and shoes are on point I can work with everything else.
Your favourite fashion designer?
It’s hard to say, I don’t have one particular favourite; I like different designers for different things. I love Ginavito Rossi and Manolo Blahnik shoes, I love Alaia, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Acne, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, Celine, The Row for just about everything! I love Maxmara for their coats, Balmain for their blazers and jackets.
“Fashion everywhere right now is about comfortâ€
Where in Pakistan do you love to shop?
To be honest, I don’t really shop in Pakistan, but I do love going to Al Fatah’s makeup section and looking at the local lipsticks brands. I always find a shade that I haven’t seen anywhere else, and I’ll buy a pack of Hashmi Kajol, and sometimes I’ll go to Liberty and walk around with my mum. I might pick up some cute costume jewelry, or hair clips but that’s really it.
What is the oldest item in your closet?
I have some very old jewellery given to me by mother which was given to her by her mother. Besides that, I have a few vintage Chanel bags and jewelry, and an Escada fur from the 70s.
What do you think are must-have items that are essential to a great closet?
A chic black blazer, a solid leather jacket (for those of you who like wearing them) black/white/grey T shirts, and jeans (my favorites are skinny and boyfriend from J Brand and Paige), a pair of leather trousers (I have an amazing pair from J Brand and Saint Laurent), Nike sneakers, Manolo Blahnik classic pointy pumps and some ballet flats or Tods.
What is the most prized possession in your closet?
It changes every now and then but I have a collection of rare Chanel belts I barely even wear because they’re so delicate and special, and obviously my fine jewelry and engagement ring are some of my most prized possessions!
Your favourite accessory?
My collection of Collier de Chein Hermés cuffs, I have them in different colors and wear them all the time.
“the red sole on my Louboutins makes me cringe, but I own too many pairs — I’m talking around 50â€
What item in your closet makes your cringe?
My Louboutins, the red sole makes me cringe, but I own too many pairs — I’m talking around 50 — and this was a lesson learnt. Still, some of them really work for Pakistani clothes. I think about selling some but it kills me to think how much I’ve spent on them and how much someone would be willing to pay.
I’m hoping my future daughter or niece is my shoe size! Oh, the only ones I still like the look of are the Pigalle’s but they’re too uncomfortable, and that to me is not luxury!
Any fashion regrets?
Not really; it must have looked great at the time.
How does style differ in the two big cosmopolitan cities you have lived in, London and L.A.?
Immensely! L.A. is sporty and more relaxed, London fashion is more refined, of course, more classy. But fashion everywhere right now is all about comfort so I see that in both places, which I love! The designers that are favoured in London are not necessary the same in L.A and vise versa. I love a combination of both of these cities in my style. Add some Parisian chic and you’ve got it!
Saba Ahmed talks to designer Aneeta Nagi Bukhari
1. You’ve said that “Love Indigenous is a tribute to the multifarious worlds, and stories, that form our existence.” Care to elaborate?
Love Indigenous is about taking inspiration from a multidimensional world. On one end of the spectrum, I’m really inspired by geometric patterns and Islamic art and on the other I’m exploring the threadwork of interior Sindh and cross stitch of south Punjab. We’re creating one-of-a kind pieces of cross stitch on organza that I haven’t seen anywhere before. It’s proven to be a successful experiment. So for anything in the world, Love Indigenous is committed to pushing boundaries
2. Love indigenous is big on corporate social responsibility. Is this something that you hold dear?
On a personal level, social welfare has always been a big part of my life. As a family, we are constantly creating income-earning opportunities for families that need help and resources to make themselves self-sustaining. Our family has created income-generating opportunities for 20 odd families in our area. My father, who is big on health issues, is providing ongoing treatments and education and so it’s something I’ve grown up seeing and which I feel very strongly about. Love Indigenous is about taking responsible fashion to a more professional and more organized level. The Love Green initiative is where we source embroideries and hand block prints from families that have the skills and the talent yet don’t have access to urban markets. Sourcing and paying them is not where we end our relationship with them. We go beyond that: any ensemble that gets sold that is hand blocked or embroidered by people from this initiative, a portion of the profit is given back to them
3. Tell us about your design process
There are two arms to the design process, one is where we source from families and women from different parts of the country, and with that we have a decided cut, design and color combinations of the embroidery and of the ensemble. It comes back to us fit to our specifications. The other arm is our in-house production where our team of designers and myself sit together and brainstorm ideas. We don’t have any such set pattern, the floor is open to anything and in fact some of our most beautiful ensembles have been results of random musings. Most of our designs are hand drawn, transferred onto computers and then sent for printing
4. Tell us about your journey into the world of fashion and apparel
I’ve been exposed to many different and creative ways of expressing myself. I play the sitar; my mother’s a furniture designer and my father’s a journalist. When I got married and moved to Karachi, I enrolled at the Indus Valley School for Art and Architecture in the diploma program in Photography. That just connected me to a world of talent and gifted people who I was amazed to come across and then one thing led to another. Exploring photography led me to exploring textiles and I met more and more students studying various mediums, communication design, textiles, and photography. So later, I decided to put it all together and that is how Love Indigenous was formed
5. Are you big on multitasking? How are you at work?
I’m a homemaker first, I have a two-year-old and actually being a mother makes you a great multitasker! So I’m going at my own pace and I’m not competing with anyone but myself. Yes, a byproduct of multitasking is that I tend to micromanage big time. At work, I’m pretty easy going, and I understand that harmony is very important in the workplace. And striking that balance between accommodation and discipline is something I’m still learning
6. What are your favorite pieces from your collection?
I do have favorites, one is the hand embroidered jacket by women in Khairpur that I absolutely love and then there is the cross stitch jacket which incorporates hand cross stitch on organza. It’s got beautiful big floral motifs with our in-house digitally designed raw silk shirt. I think generally Love Indigenous is being known more for our statement jackets and coat
7. The market is saturated with designers. How do you feel about this?
I feel obviously that there is intense competition but I also feel that the competition really helps to challenge my creative sensibilities. You have designers that are formally trained and others that are just naturally gifted and the spectrum is so wide, but I think that if you bring something new to the table, you will not be disappointed with the response from the public. I think people are very open and accepting of new people coming into the market. Of course, people have their loyalties and favorites but if you do have something new and different, I think people are still keen to try you out and give you the response that you deserve
“My favourite pieces are a hand embroidered jacket by women in Khairpur and a jacket which incorporates hand cross stitch on organzaâ€
8. Are clients different from city to city?
Probably not so much from city to city for the big metropolitan cities, but internationally, people don’t walk in and demand discounts. That is something that I’ve noticed as a trend so far. Locally, it’s just negotiate and negotiate for you to bring down the cost! This is something that bothers me especially when people haggle with poor people and are willing to pay exorbitant prices for designer wear
9. How is your ideal day off spent?
My ideal day off is spent being an entertainer for my 2-year-old. This wedding season she discovered the little dancer in her and on most weekends we go mad dancing with her on her favorite music. I feel humor and fun are so important and necessary. My husband and I are big on eating out and hitting the cinemas on the weekend. That’s our time to catch up
“Some of our most beautiful ensembles have been results of random musingsâ€
10. What is your greatest weakness?
Impatience
11. What is your greatest extravagance?
Travelling and definitely not touristy places!
12. Pakistani designer you admire most?
Very tough between Élan and Sania Maskatiya
13. Who from anywhere and from any age would you love to dress?
I’d love to dress
Natalie Portman
Makeup | Arammish Spa
Furniture & Interior | Mi Casa
GT talks to Pakistan’s best cake artists
Special occasions and events are steadily gaining popularity: Valentine’s Day, baby showers, mother’s and father’s days and many more. They bring us closer to our loved ones by making us make the time from our busy lifestyles. And cakes have carved out an exquisitely sweet place in this social framework. Novelty cakes, personalized with intimate symbolism, now make their appearance at a growing number of events. And so we bring to you the identities behind some of Pakistan’s best novelty cakes!
Lahore
The Mad Chef
“Food has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. My grandfather was an incredible baker and chef, so the culinary arts have always been an integral part of my life. I believe that novelty cake bakers are not just cake decorators or cake designers, but artists. Our cakes are not your usual cakes, neither are they mass produced. The Mad Chef is run by my sister Naira and me. Naira is studying fine arts and is a little genius with her paintbrush. While I bake, frost, create sculptures, sugar-crafted figurines and flowers, my sister paints ridiculously mad portraits. The Mad Chef depicts our intense passion for food. Our energy comes from the way we create recipes, how we research, and the way we experiment with flavors, textures and techniques and, lastly, how we enjoy our food without a care in the world. The key to success is innovation and not to Google designs and copy them but to be fascinated and inspired by nature around you. It can be the smoke coming out of a hot teapot or a curled dry leaf crunching under your feet.”
— Saba Sharjeal
The Floofies
“I remember my mother made a cake shaped like a cat for one of my birthdays when I was a kid. That stuck with me. I would ask her to make the same thing over and over on each birthday until I’d gotten too old to have cakes shaped like animals. I’ve always loved cartoons and that, at least, hasn’t changed over the years. At college, I majored in illustration, so one day, I saw my mother baking and told her I wanted to draw on one of the cakes. It started off as a joke, but then we started experimenting with materials and kept at it until we finally got it right. We never planned on starting a company, but we knew that we had something, her being the baker and me being the artist. That’s how it started and we never looked back.
“That’s the funny thing about doing something
you love: If you fail, you’ll find another way to make it workâ€
There have been loads of times when people would question if this career path was ideal for me, and what if I failed at it. That’s the funny thing about doing something that you love, that you’re passionate about: If you fail, you’ll find another way to make it work. You’ll keep trying until you get it right.”
— Reham Sani
Cakes Matter
Cakes Matter was conceived as a home-based confectionery offering exquisitely crafted and uniquely-designed cakes and patisserie for an exclusive clientele. It happened more by coincidence than by design. Though I have always had a deep inclination towards baking and sculpting, I never imagined making a career out of it. I would make cakes for friends and family and received quite unexpected adulation. I once made a cake for a friend’s birthday and later, got my first ever order from her brother and his friends. Thereon started my love affair with cake art! The name “Cakes Matter” underscores the importance of making an occasion memorable with an artistically produced and symbolic cake.
“I was selected as one of four finalists to compete in the biggest cake show in Europeâ€
Of all the mediums I have worked with — acrylic paints, fabric paints, charcoal pencils, crayons, modelling clay — food colors and gum paste are what I find to be the most fascinating. Creating an edible teddy bear out of a ball of gum paste and enlivening a cupcake with it is an experience in itself. Cake decorating is a brilliant field. It’s innovative, it’s rewarding and unlike other jobs, it hardly ever gets monotonous!
My best memory relating to cake artistry was when I got selected as one of the four finalists globally to compete at the Live Cake Decoration competition at Cake International UK, the biggest cake show in Europe. I secured a second position in the PME Cupcake Challenge and was a Runner up in the PME Cake Decorator of the Year Challenge. I also participated in the International Category at Cake International and made a cake depicting Pakistan’s Rural Life. This event exposed me to the magical world of sugar craft. I brought back home not just a trophy but also tremendous inspiration for advancing my craft. Locally, I took part in the Cake Off at the DHA Food Festival this year and secured First position in the Best Cake Art Category. My cake represented Lahore and all that I love about this city.”
—Zara Abbas
Le Reve
“My interest in designing cakes was honed and supported by the confectionary classes I took in the Middle East. My penchant for cooking as well as my background in arts and crafts took care of the aesthetics side. There’s much to say about the art and inner workings of designer confectioners. As any dedicated craftsman would, we must maintain a degree of beauty and elegance in the designs we make. Personally speaking, it’s a dedication to perfection which has allowed me to be able to make my novelty cakes. I take out hours every day for months on end to test and refine flavors, colours and overall designs. And that’s something that never really ends! I still look at past designs and think to myself: a different shade of red would look so much better on that rose cake, and then I begin working on creating that new shade. It would be a disservice to my customers as well as to what I’ve built, if there was any one day in my professional life where I settled for something less than the best.
“I still look at past designs and think to myself: a different shade of red would look so much better on that rose cakeâ€
Another thing I pride myself on is understand what people want. Every single cake of mine is the result of my own personal passion for the craft intertwined with the specifics put forth by my customers. And on that note, I’ve been very fortunate to have an amazing fan base. 2015 is gearing up to be a busy year. I’ll be starting my own version of culinary classes!”
— Leena Waseem
Karachi
Absolutely Caked
“Absolutely Caked ? my sister’s play on absolutely baked, is exactly that: mad, creative, and high on beautiful cakes. It began from a need to bake a greater variety of creative flavor combinations, and to learn how to handle fondant for my son’s 6th birthday cake. I was battling a Captain America carved cake but was frustrated by the limitations of fondant — too much carving and sculpting — plus, everyone was doing it. Then it all came together, my Fine Arts degree and my love for baking and all things beautiful: I would paint on fondant. It was the perfect white canvas. I could paint anything. Thats how Absolutely Caked’s signature hand-painted cakes began. Painting a cake turned it into a work of art. What I love about each cake is the collaboration with the client. Their cake tells a story, be it about the first flowers a husband gave his wife, or a porcelain collection originating from Russia that made its way to Pakistan with Afghan refugees after the Russian Revolution. Even the flavors are inspired by memories, Old School Twist plays with the memory of the traditional caramel fudge sold in our school canteen; The Gardens of Qurtuba cake has layers of orange cake covered with a rich chocolate ganache in memory of a walk through the gardens of the old mosque in Cordoba.
Similarly, Absolutely Caked also specializes in gum paste flowers. Gum paste defies the sensible. It needs obsession and time, lots of it. It needs patience and a gentle hand. It needs you to want beauty. It hides in tissues and boxes, fragile and delicate, only to grace a cake for a few hours. I know that within minutes perhaps it will perish. But I find something poetic in that. The flower brought beauty to someone’s celebration. It exists in memory and in photos. My motto: make the world beautiful one cake at a time.”
—Zairah Maher
PepperLime & SugarPlum
“This is my art, my mode of expression, and how I channel my creativity. I am happiest when I am given carte blanche with the design, and my clients and I are on the same page. I like to work with color, scale and balance. I am addicted to the instant gratification that this kind of work can bring, and that is what keeps me going despite the crazy hours and back breaking labor that goes into making customized cakes. One of the best things about being in this field is that one constantly evolves. There are so many new things to learn and ways to experiment. There is no time to get bored.
I see new bakers in this field whose work is truly inspired, and you can see their hard work in their creations. I think any time your work is driven by passion, it is apparent in what you create. At least, that is what keeps me going.”
—Saira Faruqi
Islamabad
Funky Bake
“It all started in 2009 when I saw a picture of a nicely decorated cupcake online. None of what happened next was easy by any stretch, but it pays off now every day. Passion is a force that unleashes boundless creativity, and if you’re passionate about something, you’re more willing to take risks and that is exactly what my passion for baking has enabled me to do.
“My husband helps with the mixes and frostings while my elder son is an amazing 3D artistâ€
My husband has been my greatest support and mentor. It’s now a family-run show as my husband helps with the mixes and frostings while my elder son is an amazing 3D artist. My little one loves to create miniature versions of everything I create.
I also train women ranging from ages 12 to 60 who have a desire to learn the skill of baking and decorating. Having been baking since the age of 9 and loving it still has helped tremendously to stay focused. Nothing is more satisfying than a smile on a toddler’s face when he rushes into my little heaven and gets the cupcake of his choice.”
—Amber Qazi
