Color Coded Crime by Seemab Saqib Khan – ft. Zara Peerzada
Creative director: Mahrang Anwer
Model: Zara Peerzada
Photographer: Seemab Saqib
Makeup artist: Sonia Nazeer
Styling: Usama Khan
Creative assistance: Ayesha Anwer
Lebel: Rabia Zahur
Talent: Neha Rajpoot & Atikah
Hair & Makeup: Fatima Nasir
Photography: Rehan Khan
Styling & Art Direction: Maha Khan
Accessories: Noor Jahan Jewels
Junaid Khan’s star has been on the rise for quite some time. After a successful music career, he transitioned to becoming a critically acclaimed actor. This fortnight he speaks with Mehek Raza Rizvi about his work, peers and more
Your drama serial “Kashf†has a brilliant script and stellar performances. Tell us about the vibe on set—the stuff your audience doesn’t get to see.Â
The plot of the drama serial itself is very serious and apart from a few scenes with dark humour, through Kashf’s father, there isn’t much comic relief. However, behind the camera the atmosphere is very different. The entire cast is extremely fun-loving; most people think I’m reserved, but that’s not true when I’m around people who I’m comfortable with. Hira Mani, as everyone knows is full of life, Danish Nawaz is the absolute king of comedy on our set and Mr. Waseem Abbas, owing perhaps to this theatre background, has excellent comedic timing even in real life. Every time we’re in the makeup room, it’s a complete party! The female cast, in particular, is very supportive of each other; they’re always seen encouraging and rooting for their costars. The vibe on our set is definitely very positive.
“Sun Yaaraâ€, “Mohabbat Na Kariyoâ€, “Kashf†and another untitled project in the pipeline—you and Hira Mani have done quite a few projects together. Recently, she called you her “lucky charm†in an interview as well. How would you describe your working relationship with her and why do you think you two are casted together so often?Â
Hira and I have been doing projects together for quite some time now, due to which we’re aware of each other’s working style and thus are very comfortable with each other as costars. Not only the two of us, but our families too, are friends, so a comfort zone has been developed. Our energy on set is focused on improving our performances solely, instead of having to worry about first getting along with or understanding our costar. We keep pushing each other to do better. The energy Hira brings onscreen is phenomenal; I love working with her because she’s very positive, is very cooperative and believes in teamwork.
As far as production houses wanting to cast us together repeatedly is concerned, I think that happens when an on-screen couple is liked by the audience. It also helps that we’re both professional and with us, there won’t be any issues or tantrums on set.
“Since I’ve always been of a reserved nature, I realised I struggled with expressing my feelings at times, which led to people misunderstanding me. Any positive emotion that you feel must be communicatedâ€
Talking about the new untitled project, we want to know more.
It’s a very interesting script. The concept may seem basic, but the way the plot evolves, the way each scene is put together and how the characters are knit in, is all very interesting; you won’t feel there was a single scene that was insignificant. The audience is bound to remain on the edge of their seats. Armeena Khan is going to be seen in a drama serial after about three years; Armeena, Hira and I have had a ball together. Overall, it’s looking like a promising project. I just heard the OST (original sound track) and loved it. I think the promos will be out in about a week and you’ll get an idea of what I’m talking about.
You’ve also launched your own motivational web series titled “Keh Doâ€. What’s the thought process behind that and where did the inspiration come from?Â
“Keh Do†is an original song of mine that I released about seven to eight years ago. The concept behind it is very simple, yet personal. Since I’ve always been of a reserved nature, I realised I struggled with expressing my feelings at times, which led to people misunderstanding me. Any positive emotion that you feel must be communicated.
Over the years, I’ve read scripts and characters that have helped me understand, not just other people, but myself as well. I’ve given a lot of thought to who I am and what my purpose is. There were a lot of topics that I tried to decipher and breakdown. Negative thinking is something most of us deal with, so the way I dealt with it, is what you see in the web series, It’s all in my own, simple and brief words. It’s my own modest understanding of things, because, of course, I’m not a psychologist or expert in the field. It’s all about positive thinking and emotions I’ve felt in my life. I’ll be discussing them episode by episode.
“The energy Hira brings onscreen is phenomenal; I love working with her because she’s very positive, is very cooperative and believes in teamwork†—Junaid on Hira Mani
Do you think it’s important for actors these days to explore the web and other avenues apart from traditional television?Â
I don’t think any individual is bound to stay confined to one particular avenue, for example, I started my career as a musician. This is a very fluid field; whether it’s important or not is relative. For some, like me, it’s just a creative outlet. I felt if I wanted to put forth something like “Keh Doâ€, YouTube was the best place for it.
You started your career as a singer, as you just mentioned, but it seems acting has replaced that. Would that be true to assert?Â
Music may have taken a back seat due to my other professional commitments, but it’s a huge part of who I am and will always remain the platform with which I started my career. I’ll always be a musician.
“Every time we’re in the makeup room, it’s a complete party! The female cast, in particular, is very supportive of each other; they’re always seen encouraging and rooting for their costarsâ€
Can we expect anything from you as a singer in the near future?Â
I’m working on a lot of things, both with my band and solo. I’ll be sharing more details with you very soon. GT will be the first to know!
“I’m working on a lot of things, both with my band and solo. I’ll be sharing more details with you very soon. GT will be the first to know!â€
We ran a little search on you and the web is full of projects you’re doing. How does that leave any time behind for family or yourself?
The web at times gives the impression that us actors don’t have time for ourselves, but over the years, I’ve learnt how to balance things. I think balance is very important, in everything in life. I don’t really have much of a social life, so the time that I’m not working, on weekends for instance, is spent bonding with my family.
What is Junaid Khan like at home?Â
Junaid Khan at home is like any other regular guy. I’m mostly around my family, watching television, eating my favourite food and connecting with my loved ones.
Designer: Nauman Arfeen
Make up & Grooming: Sabs
Courtesy: Dewan Baqi Farooqui
at Harley Davidson
Hassan Tahir Latif speaks to the duo behind the first-of-its-kind volume on the history of Pakistani fashion, ‘Pakistan: A Fashionable History’
How did the idea of archiving Pakistan’s fashion history originate?
Mehr: It was one of those disastrous mornings when everything goes wrong. I’d had a baby and had to drop my toddler off to school. Panicking over leaving the baby home, exhausted and mentally spent, I sat collapsed in my car wearing a t-shirt and tracks covered with baby dribble, formula and remnants of a hasty breakfast. Looking out I noticed a fellow mum dressed to the hilt—makeup, hair, three-piece suit—at 7am. What struck me was that she looked as miserable as I felt; I wondered: who’s telling us women to dress a certain way and setting these expectations? That triggered something in me about the fashion industry and I knew I had to find out more.
Saad: Mehr and I were always interested in collaborating on a project. I reached out to her and she mentioned that she wanted to do something on the Pakistani fashion industry. The discussion led to the idea of doing a historical book, which emphasised the formation and evolution of the industry.
Tell us about the development process.
M: It started with us identifying who the ‘original’ designers of Pakistan are. We reached out to them explaining what the book was going to do i.e. document the origin of the fashion industry and its evolution and impact. The next step was collecting archives, which ultimately led us to interview make-up artists, photographers, stylists, models, fashion journalists and publishers of glossy magazines. Honestly, the Pakistani fashion industry is as indebted to them, as to the design pioneers.
S: While Mehr conducted interviews on the phone, I was lucky to tour Karachi as a musician with my band Quadrum. I’d stay back for a few days after the concerts and meet the Karachi based photographers, designers and journalists. I literally went to all the major old bookshops, hunting for old magazines and books on fashion. I was also lucky to have access to Newsline’s Karachi office, where I scanned anything related to fashion. Those rare and exclusive archives now form a major and integral part of the book.
Was it difficult to dig through the archives? In fact, were there any easily available archives to begin with?
M: A family member, my cousin Irfan, had sent old print ads to me and I was stunned. With his help, I managed to track down the source. The gentleman was most civil and readily shared them. He was a masterclass on archiving history and how to share them. Others such as Asif Raza, Tariq Amin and Tapu Javeri were also very generous.
S: We literally had to start from scratch, as the archives had to be found first; then I scanned and photographed them one by one from myriad sources. The entire process should’ve taken a year, but actually took three, since the research was extensive and the imagery was non-existent. Surprisingly, most of the individuals interviewed didn’t have much of their own archives. In fact, they requested me to pass on any copies that I found of their work.
What was the reaction from the fashion fraternity when you embarked on this project?
M: They were wary and unsure; the idea that we wanted to document their industry was an alien concept. Pakistan at a national level has a culture of mistrust stemming from instability and uncertainty in the country and that meant we had to keep explaining, writing, emailing, updating and communicating at every stage and step. I kept the entire process transparent and worked really hard in building relationships with the community.
S: Despite the book being about fashion, the initial response from that fraternity was lukewarm. Many were hesitant to grant us required access, as they’d hoped to undertake a similar project on their own. This did make things difficult for us, but the fact that we have a finished book does speak volumes.
What do you hope that this book achieves?
M: I hope people feel proud of Pakistan. Having being born and bred in a fashion capital (London), I don’t see fashion as just clothes—it defines culture, generations, mindsets, the economy and makes history as well. Pakistan has suffered so much, lost so much; I want people to feel inspired and to go out and own their social and cultural history in its entirety and document it all via the written word.
S: The fact that this book is the first of its kind makes it significant. I hope this is seen as a tribute to an important industry, which has defined culture since its inception. I feel there is a massive disconnect in our society, owing to the national identity crisis. We continue to battle with our actual roots and seek to adopt foreign cultures. I want this book to be an eye-opener for all those who feel that disconnect.
Mehr, what was the most surprising discovery during your research? Or the most memorable one?
Tariq Amin was a Studio 54 clubber, did you know?! I love retro and disco culture, so hearing that blew my mind. It rejuvenated my spirit after setbacks. I swear I heard Diana Ross speak to me during his interview.
I believe in free speech and so coming across people like Fifi Haroon with her magazine ‘Xtra’ and Arshad Tareen of ‘Men’s Club’ was terribly exciting. Those kind of publications don’t, and perhaps can’t, exist now sadly, but the way they broke boundaries and opened up new avenues for liberation and expression was heartening to behold.
Saad, what about you? What was the most memorable photograph you took for this project?
It was an utter pleasure to meet Tapu Javeri at his jewellery store in Karachi and photograph him. Directing Pakistan’s ace photographer for his shoot was scary and fun at the same time. I’m glad his photos turned out great and that he really liked them!
What’s next for you both?
M: After seeing how damaged the publishing industry is in Pakistan and the immense talent that’s not finding avenues, I decided to open my own publishing house; I’ve already received submissions for publishing! I want to focus on changing the model of publishing in the country and make it more meaningful for all parties involved. Personally, I want to now cross over to fiction and also focus on my small crafts enterprise.
S: I’d like to continue building my own archives and author more books on history, culture and art. I have a lot of unpublished visuals, which I would like to translate into books.
Production & Coordination:Â Centaur One
Brand: Rastah
Models: Arbaqan Changezi & Qamar Kkwaja
Shot by: Asad Bin Javed
Videography: Alif Noon Seen
Styling: Arbaqan Changezi
Special Thanks: Ghazi Khan
Hair & makeup: Toni & Guy North, Phase 6 DHA, Lahore
Sarwat Gilani is no stranger to complex roles; with the critically-acclaimed web series “Churailsâ€, she’s tapped into yet another dimension of her craft. Following the resounding success of the series, she chats with Mehek Raza Rizvi about the conception of “Churailsâ€, portraying roles responsibly and how she prepared to essay Sara
“Churails†is the first Pakistan-made original series for Indian streaming platform Zee5 Global. We’re curious to know the background behind this affiliation. Who reached out first?Â
Shailja Saraswati Varghese, who heads content at Zee5 had noticed Asim Abbasi’s movie “Cake†and found it to be an interesting piece of art. She approached Asim and suggested they collaborate. At that point, Asim was in the process of writing the first draft of “Churails†and so he put together the pilot and sent it across. She liked it and asked him to write her a couple of more episodes, which he did and the rest is history. She loved the concept and commissioned Asim to create Pakistan’s first original product for Zee5. She gave him a lot of creative liberty to do things his way, because she could understand that he’s like a stallion—you can’t control Asim.
Did the team consider that the association of “Churails†with an Indian streaming platform could possibly hurt the sentiments of some of your local fans?Â
A product like this is not for television or film. It had to be a web series; it was written for web and sadly, we don’t have an online portal of our own yet. If Netflix or Amazon had asked us for our content, that wouldn’t have been a problem, so why should this be? Art has no boundaries and artists want to exchange work. We don’t want to put ourselves in these little matchboxes saying “this is my world†and “this is where my art stays.†Art and music are forms you can’t control; they’re like water. If we had a Pakistani platform and we didn’t use it, then we would’ve at least given a thought to what people would say, but in the absence of such an option, if someone showed interest in Pakistan and its talent, I don’t think there was any room for resistance or second thoughts.
Asim has attempted to show the real, grey people. They could come from any part of society, but they have fallen, they have risen, they have imperfections, but also some great qualities. Your positives and negatives make you human
“Churails†is a brave script, unlike any other to have been produced in the country. However, something as courageous is always susceptible to backlash. Is/was that a fear?Â
When I read the script, I knew this was a page-turner. The exceptional story is the hero of the project, it is both the antagonist and the protagonist and that’s a very unique concept to come across. With something so different, there are always fears about how it’ll be received. Whilst we were making it, we did have our doubts about people taking this well, or us hurting the feelings of part of our audience. However, we were blown away with the overwhelming love and encouragement we received when the trailer released and even more so after the first episode premiered. It was unreal; we had attempted to do something so unusual, it could make people feel uncomfortable, but it didn’t. And even if it did make a certain segment uncomfortable, they were happy with it, knowing that for the first time, someone had made the effort to talk about real issues women face that are normally not touched upon in our entertainment industry.
Tell us of the first thoughts you had when “Churails†was offered to you.Â
My first thought was “Wow!†I was just thanking my stars to be offered an unbelievable script that would make history in Pakistan. For an actor to be offered such a role and be part of such a project is like a dream. This was the unicorn I had been looking for throughout my career. I had never read, or even watched, anything like this before. I was over the moon. This is right up my alley and I’d been waiting for it for so long. I’m an artist, a rebel—I’ll always stand up for myself and say what’s right when people try to put me down or troll me. This was a story that I could relate to. The issues addressed in this script are pertinent and important to talk about. What more could I have asked for, than someone like Asim Abbasi highlighting these topics so beautifully and sensitively? He really took ownership of the real reflections of our society.
Run us through the creative process of preparing for a role like Sara. Can you relate to the character you’re playing?Â
Absolutely! I can relate to Sara completely. I think the casting was done very intelligently. Half the job was done with selecting just the right talent. I think one of the most important tasks on set is hiring the correct people and if you succeed at that, you’ve won part of the battle already.
Preparing for my role involved a lot of readings, rehearsals and personal sessions to discuss our characters, even our personal experiences—our inhibitions, sorrows and complexes—we opened up to Asim wholeheartedly, so he could understand us and see if there were any vulnerabilities he could tap into as an example when we weren’t getting something on set.
There were a lot of things that we talked about, references that we drew. A lot inspiration for Sara’s body language was drawn from Gayatri Devi, the third Maharani consort of Jaipur. I also took inspiration from Meryl Streep’s character in “The Devil Wears Prada†and for a couple of scenes with Omair Rana, I saw and studied Angelina Jolie in “Mr. & Mrs. Smith.†So there was a lot that I picked from reading what I had read before or going back to characters I had seen before.
There were a lot of things that we talked about, references that we drew. A lot inspiration for Sara’s body language was drawn from Gayatri Devi, the third Maharani consort of Jaipur. I also took inspiration from Meryl Streep’s character in “The Devil Wears Prada†and for a couple of scenes with Omair Rana, I saw and studied Angelina Jolie in “Mr. & Mrs. Smithâ€
How was your experience working with an all-female cast?Â
It was almost an all-female cast—we did have a few male co-stars on set as well, but it was an undeniably amazing experience! I think what made it even better was the fact that these were all actors with a background in theatre and were just fantastic at their craft. I always felt inspired by each one of them, as they brought so much to the table. The real magic was in the fact that they were always so normal, grounded and chilled out behind the camera, but as soon as they were shooting, they embodied the strong characters they were portraying so smoothly and effortlessly.
I think because we all came from the theatre community, we understood the essence of teamwork. There was no “star†on our set. We all stuck through the strenuous hours, challenging locations and hot weather, because we were working towards one goal, which was Asim’s vision—that was the beauty of “Churails.â€Â Our friendships have translated from reel to real life, so you can imagine what the vibe must have been like.
Why do you think it’s important to show flawed female characters on screen?Â
The whole idea of “Churails†is to get acceptance for a normal, regular human being. In our drama serials, it’s either a negative or positive role, particularly for women. There are fixed stereotypes: the working woman wearing western attire will be painted as cunning, while the one clad in shalwar kameez will be painted as innocent and upright—there is no middle ground, all characters are black and white. Asim has attempted to show the real, grey people. They could come from any part of society, but they have fallen, they have risen, they have imperfections, but also some great qualities. Your positives and negatives make you human.
Mostly, we see stories of characters who aren’t relatable, but “Churails†is the story of real women, with real issues and real traits.
Do you feel gender portrayal in Pakistani drama serials will see a shift in the near future?
I really hope so. I wish “Churails†proves to be a benchmark for our entertainment industry and we move towards more message-oriented content, without creating dilemmas in the minds of our audience and taking down their intellectual ability to understand something. I feel there is no gender equality in our drama serials. In my eighteen years of working as an actress, I’ve always had to be rescued by a man: a husband, lover, father or friend. Never before have I played a character where I fell and rose myself. Every drama is built around the premise of “will they get married?†It’s quite regressive, it’s like you don’t want people to grow. I really pray that we start taking responsibility to tell the truth and stop misguiding the public.
What role can actors play in bringing about this change?Â
When offered characters and stories that don’t encourage the idea of uplifting my audience or stimulating intellectual growth, I don’t accept them. If I can’t agree with a concept, I can’t preach it. This is why I’ve always done selective work. Your character has to be believable. I think actors should say no to poor content, regardless of the money involved. This is our responsibility as entertainers. We should not support putting women down in particular.
Women will definitely take away the fact that they aren’t the only ones with flaws. By showing the reality of our world, we’re aiming to make our resilient women realise that they’re born to fly, not crawl
What do you hope, both women and men take away from the web series? Â
Women will definitely take away the fact that they aren’t the only ones with flaws. By showing the reality of our world, we’re aiming to make our resilient women realise that they’re born to fly, not crawl. Men on the other hand, will be reminded of all the cracks they’ve made in society and also of the unfair expectations they have of women. We want men to be a little uncomfortable, so they understand this is the new age; every woman has a voice and they are going to fail in shunning us.
More importantly, what has been your biggest takeaway from your experience working on “Churails?â€
I think my most favourite experience has been unlearning my preconceived notions about acting.
Photography: Rizwan ul Haq | Styling: Ella Hussain at Emergency Room 19
Wardrobe: Yellow dress dress courtesy Asim Jofa | Hair & Makeup: Arshad Khan
Jewellery: Rouge by Rooj Amir and Jewels by Irma Hasan
Fiery singer Meesha Shafi talks to Haider Rifaat about her road to self-discovery, a grand album in the making and nepotism in Pakistan’s entertainment industry
Why did you decide to pursue a full-blown career in music as opposed to acting and modelling?
Music just came to me naturally at a very young age. I’ve been singing since I was four and kind of went with the flow, once opportunities started coming my way. I’d already been acting and modelling for some years when my music career began. Acting, singing and modelling have continued to overlap over the course of my trajectory, however my biggest passion is music. When I sing, my soul sings too.
Has COVID-19 affected Pakistan’s music industry for the better or the worse?
I know for a fact that many musicians are struggling with depression and financial stress because these challenges have put a halt to live gigs and concerts. These gigs are a major source of income for many musicians. Celebrities can still do television commercials and drama shoots, while following the standard operating procedures, but musicians are really having a hard time this year. The studio work is still ongoing, which is an indication of new songs and albums being written and recorded, both remotely and in isolation.
The culture of online music festivals has grown during a global crisis. How would’ve things been different without social media’s power to entertain mass crowds?Â
We’re fortunate to be living in a digital age during a global pandemic. It would’ve been even harder otherwise. Social media and the internet at large have helped keep everyone connected with their fans and loved ones. It’s been a blessing!
Tell our readers about the Global Toronto (GT20) music festival that you recently participated in?
It’s called Global Toronto. Initially, it was going to be live but given the circumstances, it shifted online. A very hefty jury selected 20 artists based on submissions from a pool of 150 entries. Those 20 artists played their music to delegates from around the world. These delegates included directors of various international music festivals, agents, promoters, presenters and talent hunters. As the only Pakistani selected, I was very excited to represent our musical heritage with the global music industry. I’d love to see more of our culture and music being played live globally, at international festivals and on radios across the airwaves.
How do you see the current lockdown affecting artists’ creativity and craft, specifically in music? Any experiences you would like to share?
The lockdown has been a great time for ideas and creativity. Many creative people thrive during these times, because the noise and speed of the everyday grind slows down. This is a fertile time to go inwards and ask ourselves what we want to create. Put pen to paper and go back to the old drawing board, as they say. Artists are extra sensitive and when we feel a rush of emotions, we naturally express what we feel through our craft. In such a way, this lockdown will lead to more honest work, made from a deeper, more personal perspective.
Do you feel that artists in the music business today have trouble finding their own voice?
I don’t. The newer batch of artists looks extremely promising and exciting. I’ve been following and even collaborating with many younger indie artists. Reminds me of my days when I started with Overload. That creative spirit, where music was made for the sake of music, is very much still alive.
What new music can we expect from you? Any album in the making?
Yes, I’m working on a big project that involves all original work. It’s a very personal body of work with me, being my most honest and vulnerable self. It’s a multidisciplinary project; an album but more like a thesis. I’m collaborating with several artists, writers, thinkers and creative individuals and am really enjoying the process. My vision’s at a stage where it’s turning into a reality. This project has been a long-time dream of mine and I think the lockdown has really helped show me that the time for it is now.
Which music composer do you wish to collaborate with in the future?
I’ve been truly blessed to’ve worked with the best of the best in Pakistan and abroad. The only name on my wish list is A.R. Rahman.
What’s your connection with Sufism like? Is it self-healing?
I’m a deeply spiritual person. My connection with the divine has become stronger over time. It’s very essential for healing and has been my saving grace through difficult times. Staying balanced, centered and connected is our number one job. That’s how we become the best version of ourselves.
How have you evolved as a person over the years?
That is a vast question; I don’t think I can answer that so briefly. I’ve become a lot wiser and calmer as I grew from a young woman, to a mother, and now at this stage, I feel like I’m returning to my most authentic self. That was the place I wrote “Mein†from. It talks about returning to your true self. Coming full circle and shedding the opinions of others. Not leading a life so egotistically, but from our higher selves, which is an extension of our source energy.
How has motherhood changed you?
It’s changed me a lot. It’s taught me a lot about unconditional love, being a role model and how important it is to prioritise self-care. Children watch and learn. They imitate you. So it’s crucial to show them how they can stand up for themselves, respect and honor their feelings and lead their lives with dignity and kindness.
I wanted your take on nepotism. I believe it shouldn’t be brushed off as common practice in all major career fields. For an entertainment industry like Pakistan, nepotism remains widespread, leaving fresh faces, with considerable talent, on the side. What do you make of this?
I’ve seen many self-made artists follow their own path to success, so I wouldn’t say that only people with family connections make it in the industry.
Let’s talk fashion. Are you someone who follows the latest trends or sticks to her own personal style?
I’ve always followed my own instincts when it comes to fashion. I don’t follow trends. I guess that is the difference between style and fashion. I don’t consider myself fashionable, but I do have a signature way of styling myself.
Shahzad Malik, the author of Pakistan’s first English language self-help book, ‘Dare To Be You’, sits down with GT to talk about mental health, the importance of self-actualisation and his journey to becoming a self-help author
Please tell us a little bit about your background and what led you to writing this book.
I was born in Toronto, Canada, but I’ve been raised in Lahore, Pakistan and I’m a Pakistani through and through. I have a business background, but I’m passionate about music and noticing the subtleties of the world around me.
I’ve been lucky to grow up with privilege, but even despite that I found myself stuck in a loop of making sub-optimal decisions. Eventually, it came to a point during my teenage years where I was introduced to self-help books and biographies of people who had ‘made it’ like Warren Buffet, Steve Jobs, and Jack Welsh. I was instantly roped in and I started seeing a common pattern of behaviour between all of them. Similarly, with the self-help books I was reading (and have been reading since), I found that each author focused on one particular aspect of self-development. There was no book that really constituted a bit of everything—a starter kit for someone who wanted to pick up a self-help book and really understand the basics of working on themselves. Looking back, I think it was the combination of the two that led to the concept behind ‘Dare to be You’. I wanted people to have a basic platform from where they can begin their journey towards self-actualisation.
Do you think Pakistan is ready to embrace the self-help genre?
Of course! There’s no question about it. We, as individuals, are programmed to focus on the negatives. We focus more on our bad experiences, ruminating about them and overthinking about what the future holds. Of course, the news doesn’t help much with it. But, we also see so many Pakistanis who go out of their way to help other people—complete strangers even. After all, it’s the people that allow us to collectively become one of the most hospitable nations in the world. Self-help involves the same principles as helping someone else; it’s just focused inward. Through the process of self-development, we’re actually able to not just achieve more ourselves, but also to lift up the people around us.
Mental health awareness is an increasingly highlighted subject. How do you think ‘Dare to be You’ will help its readers?
While I was writing my book, I was very conscious of the fact that a self-development book should never talk down to its reader. Thus, the book is written more as a conversation with a friend. It builds upon the already familiar sense of hospitality that comes so innately to all of us. Another aspect about the book is that anyone can pick it up and make sense of it. While it addresses heavy topics, the book itself is not heavy at all. Regardless of where you are in life, ‘Dare to be You’ is just the little push you need. It’s a great way to take your first step towards self-development.
How do you hope to reduce the stigma around mental health and seeking therapy in Pakistan?
I honestly don’t understand why the stigma exists in the first place. Mental health is just as important as physical health; they both go together, hand-in-hand. My hope would be that through reading the book and pondering over what the book talks about, more people will become aware that it’s completely human and natural for everyone to have ups and downs in their life. And that we all have the potential to fight through those downs to rise back up again.
If we were to summarise 3 key learnings from the book for our readers, what would they be?
It’s very hard to point out just three key learnings from the book, because it touches upon a number of topics. But if I had to, I would probably say: believing, being grateful and being more forgiving, especially towards our own selves.
‘Dare to Be’ you prides itself to be the first English self-development book in the country. How is your debut endeavour different from Qasim Ali Shah’s urdu writings on the subject in the same genre?
Qasim Ali Shah’s writings have inspired and helped a number of people, as do his talks and trainings. I think it would be unfair to compare his works with this book and vice versa. I think the hope is that all such works end up serving the reader and helping in one way or the other.
What do you hope to achieve from writing this book?
My only hope is that it helps the readers—that anyone who picks up the book finds themselves having taken the first step on their journey of self-development, and that they are able to actualise their passions and their dreams.
How difficult is it in Pakistan for a writer with little to no means and relevant network to publish a book?
There are a number of publishing houses that are now operational in Pakistan, which is a very heartening thing to see. This wasn’t the case even a couple of years ago when the book was in its early stages. Now, the internet has made it a lot easier for all of us to express ourselves and put our thoughts and ideas out there, including through publishing a book.
What is next for Shahzad Malik?
I’ve been involved with motivational speaking and talks, with a recent one that took place in Washington, about how to work in Pakistan and be an agent of change, so I enjoy doing this. People have been asking me about writing another book, but for right now I want to focus on ‘Dare to be You’ and work on its Urdu version.
Any parting advice for our readers?
Never ever stop believing in yourself. You are, without any shred of doubt, capable of much more than you let yourself believe. Never give up!
Zahara by Zuria Dor is an amalgamation of tradiational craftsmanship and impeccable quality. The Zahara collection reflects creativity that reinvents the traditional aesthetic, revising the beauty and sophistication of delicately hand-embellished couture
Outfits: Zuria Dor
Model: Maha Ishaq Tahirani
Photographer: Aleena Naqvi
Make up / hair: Hadi
Jewellery: Jaipur & Co.
Earlier this year, GT’s very own Nimrah Khokhar tied the knot with Khurram Shafiq in a beautiful day-time ceremony. We wish the happy couple all the best for their journey together.
Rehmat Ajmal first captivated us through the way she brought a unique artist’s sensibility to fashion modelling; she’s now bowled us over with her brand Rehstore. Mehek Raza Rizvi speaks to Rehmat about fashion, art, business and more
With a thriving modelling career, what propelled you to start your own clothing line?
In 2018 I graduated from the National College of Arts in Textile Design. Given my busy schedule of shoots and other freelance projects, I couldn’t have worked alongside any existing designer from 9-5, so I decided to start something of my own in order to make the most of my free time. Initially, it started as a side business, but with constant support of all my customers and friends, it’s safe to say Rehstore has taken over to become the main business for me. I do feel both Rehmat Ajmal and Rehstore help each other in many ways. What I do as a model is very closely related to fashion, so I think they pair together very well as different branches of the same tree.
Most people might not be aware of your educational background as an artist. Please tell our readers about it.
I did my O & A Level from Lahore Grammar School (LGS). My main subjects were Art & Business Studies. After graduating from LGS, I did my Bachelors in Textile Design from National College of Arts and graduated with a distinction in 2018. I started Rehstore in 2019.
How would you describe the vision behind Rehstore?
Rehstore began in the midst of an existential crisis. The word Rehstore is a play on “Restore†and “Rehmat’s storeâ€. I had graduated recently and I was feeling uncertain about many things in life personally and professionally. Opening Rehstore gave me a sense of direction and empowered me in many ways. Although it combines both art and business, it will always be more than a business for me; it represents restoration of self and my own identity. The vision Rehstore carries is more than what it sells on its virtual shelves—it shines more on the ability to take a risk as an entrepreneur and to put yourself out there powering through self-doubt and fear.
A recent post on Rehstore’s Instagram, introduced “Rehstories,†an initiative to celebrate fellow artists. Despite the competitiveness in your industry, how important is this support?
Give two different artists the same brush and the same canvas and ask them to paint an apple, you’d be surprised to see how different both apples would be. Rehstories is an initiative to showcase works of young artists via Rehstore’s platform so they are able to reach out to more customers. It is honestly a small effort from our side in the middle of a global pandemic to help small businesses. I believe that a true artist is never afraid to share his or her paints. I am happy to make a difference in someone’s life even if it’s in a very small capacity.
On the topic of competition, the craft you focus on (surface design) is gaining popularity with other clothing brands as well. Does that put pressure on you?
To be very honest I feel more happiness than pressure! To have more makers to meet the growing demand of a very prestigious craft we need more suppliers in the business who all have different styles to offer. I strongly believe in healthy competition. It pushes you to create better and that in result adds value to your business and its growth. I’ve had constructive conversations with people in different countries who practice the same craft and learnt so many things from them. I wish for the same sense of community to formulate in Pakistan by sharing and being more secure in our own skill.
Tell us about your recent collaboration with Samsara Couture House.
It got planned pretty quickly and was concluded online. It was a great experience to join hands with a team that took my designs and processed them into beautiful stitched products.
How do you think such collaborations help individual brands grow?
It’s quite enterprising you know? At first, I was struggling with the business side of things, but now I’m finding more ways to create like an artist, yet sell like a businesswoman. With collaborations like these one learns so much about the whole business cycle. All that can come in handy for when you want to expand.
We’ve witnessed an influx of homerun businesses blossom in quarantine. Has the slowing down of everyday life impacted your creative process?
It’s actually given me more time to spend with my business. I’ve really organised the structure of things in this time as a coping mechanism, so in my case it’s safe to say that it’s impacted me rather positively.
What about you as a person? Is there a silver lining during these strange times?
You know I may seem like a social butterfly on social media, but in real life I’m very introverted. I enjoy my company at home and even before this pandemic hit us, I preferred staying at home as much as I could. Personally, I’ve really found it calming, but professionally it’s impacted me like everyone else around the globe. I think now people, including myself, are finding newer and more creative ways to cope with work.
We’re aware of your love for dance, but haven’t seen any performance recently. Can we expect something in the future?
I used to dance a lot as a teenager and in my early 20s. I was an active member and later the president of my school and college’s dance societies. I recently played a role in a musical that was showcased in Alhamra as well. But now I’m really out of practice and wouldn’t call myself a professional performer. I’m not partaking in any projects as of now, but let’s see when I’ll find it in me to dance again. For now my feet are resting!
What are your hopes and aspirations for your business a decade from now?
I believe Rehstore will always be a small business in size, but big in what it has to offer. In the future I see collaborating with like-minded creative individuals and bring newer things to the table. I do know that throughout the journey my biggest competition will always be me and I hope that with the support of platforms such as GT and so many others who have helped me in this journey, I’ll be able to conclude a better and a more evolved store in its nature and the products it has to offer.
SHORT & SWEET
Modelling or running your own business?
Running my own business
Describe your personal style in three words.
Minimalist, effortless and comfortable
What keeps you motivated?
I imagine what I want my future to look like and then I set out to create it
Tell us of an instant mood-lifter.
To be honest, I Facetime my little niece to feel better instantly, so I guess to speak to your loved ones and keep them close to you can be a quick fix
A song that describes your personality the best?
“Reflecting light†by Sam Phillips
Do you have a nickname?
Rehmu & my mother calls me Lemon (not sure why)
What irks you most about social media?
Misuse of it! Making an active choice to use it to spread hate and negativity
Alternate career choice?
I think a motivational speaker
A weakness you’re working on?
I’m working on problem management, like being able to manage a problem or a given situation more calmly and productively and holding back from reacting emotionally, especially while making business decisions
A strength that gets you through hard times?
Processing and reflecting
Atikah Gardezi brings to life one of South Asia’s most famous painters, Amrita Sher-Gil. A Hungarian-Indian artist, she revolutionised modern art in the Subcontinent and was known for her avant-garde work. Captured by Rehan Khan, this shoot exudes Old World charm
Photography: Rehan Khan
Concept & Styling: Maha Rehan
Hair & Makeup: Azeee
Muse: Atikah Gardezi
Wardrobe: Generation
Accessories: Jewelicious
Acclaimed couturier Ali Xeeshan tied the knot in a resplendent ceremony that lived up to his artistic reputation. He speaks to Mehek Raza Rizvi about married life and what he’s learnt so far. The gorgeous Myrah chimes in as well
Tell us about how you two met and the journey from love to marriage.
I first saw her at a fashion show in Islamabad and something just told me she’s the one; I just followed my instinct.
Have your expectations about marriage changed from what they were when your were single?
Yes, of course! I could’ve never imagined what a huge impact your partner can have on every aspect of your life.
How do you make sure your bond is continually nurtured and grows with time?
We both try to give each other love, respect, time, and most importantly, space.
Do you believe it’s important for partners in a marriage to maintain their own separate lives and identity?
Well, I believe that’s a personal choice. However, one should always remain supportive of their partner.
What’re the things you two have in common? And the things that set you apart from each other?
We have a lot of things in common. We always have the same opinion about people when we’re judging them for example! What sets us apart are our sleep patterns for sure.
What has been your fondest memory together so far?
Travelling together to Rashakai to procure fabric.
Tell us about your beautiful wedding — who was more involved in the preparations?
We planned everything in three days only. My amazing team and I were in charge of most things, but I have to say, more than any other detail, getting the shade of a giraffe sculpture right was the prime concern; this was Myrah’s responsibility. She had to pull a few strings, get a few factories to open and have it painted on time.
What aspect of marriage were you most pleasantly surprised by?
The fact that it’s made me calm and wiser.
How do you envision your lives together ten years from now?
We want to grow old with each other and just live happily ever after, together forever.
If you could give one piece of advice to couples about to tie the knot, what would it be?
Please respect each other’s personal space.
SHORT & SWEET
Who’s the better cook?
Myrah
Who apologises first after an argument?
We haven’t really had any massive arguments yet. Let’s wait and find out.
What’s an activity you two enjoy doing together?
Hisab Kitab.
Ali, do you have a say in putting together your wife’s wardrobe?
I like her personal style and don’t want her to be an extension of me. However, there are a few minor tweaks that I make here and there.
Myrah, do you ever give input to Ali on his designs?
Yes, he always asks my opinion.
If you could, which one trait would you change about each other?
We’ve embraced each other the way we are. Even if we have shortcomings, we accept them as part of the package.
What are the traits you value most in each other?
Ali: I admire her spirituality
Myrah: Honesty and creativity
What do you think is your greatest strength as a couple?
Our love and admiration for each other
What’s the most challenging part of being married?
Knowing there will be no days off—you’re married for the rest of your life.
Designer Murrad Rahim Khan presents a collection that is a tribute to the different facets of a woman, with each design capturing a unique aspect
Designer : Murrad Rahim Khan
Photography: Ali Abbas at 360 Degrees
Art Direction: Hussein Kazmi at 360 Degrees
Videography: Furqan Bhatti at 360 Degrees
Styling: Lara Madhuwal & Murrad Rahim at 360 Degrees
Hair & Makeup: Tuba Shehzad at 360 Degrees
Production: GS Productions
Models: Mohsin Ali, Eesha Assad and Kanwal Ilyas
First fashion memory?
Observing my mother find exquisite fabrics and style unique combinations into beautiful, wearable art. I get my obsession with fashion and beauty from her. My father, too, has always been very particular about what he wears. When I look at photographs of him from his early 20s, it always feels like looking at my own reflection.
When and how did you decide to become a stylist?
Back in 2015, when I’d just done my intermediate, I decided to go to the Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD), fully aware I wanted to pursue a career in fashion. My degree in Fashion Marketing helped me tap into the industry, learn the technicalities and refine my skills.
Everyone feels great when they look like the best version of themselves; being able to bring a smile on people’s faces through my aesthetic motivated me.
Fashion campaigns or editorials: what do you enjoy more and how different is each process?
I enjoy both equally, but since my approach for editorials and campaigns is different, the process differs too. For commercial campaigns I try understanding the requirements of my client, the target audience and the theme of the collection. I do thorough research, which I think sets me apart—it helps to have a degree in fashion. Also, I don’t believe in putting together aesthetically pleasing looks only. I customise looks according to the model/celebrity I’m working with, because it’s important to not just highlight the product, but also make the person wearing it look good.
Tell us about the creative process behind putting together looks for a campaign.
It usually starts with a thorough discussion with the client, understanding what they want and what they have to offer. This is followed by the creation of a mood board that includes references for hair, makeup and the general vibe. Once the mood board is finalised, I start handpicking accessories and discuss my ideas with the creatives I’m working with. The looks are locked in at this point, but a few extra options are kept for impromptu changes.
What’s your approach on mixing luxury brands with more affordable ones?
I personally mix and match anything that looks good. I’d happily wear a designer suit with local footwear, but it’s important to note that there are instances where this can go wrong as well. For example, I’m not a fan of people stacking designer jewelry, designer handbags and designer shades over a lawn jora—lawn literally loses its essence.
Do you ever use items from your clients’ closets?
Not really. I’d only use items from my client’s closet if particularly asked to do so. I’m not against the idea, but am usually prepared enough with my own things.
Describe your personal style in three words.
Laid back
Mood-dependent
Casual
What’s a wardrobe staple you can’t do without?
My everyday style is extremely comfy. The staples in my closet include plain, black and white t-shirts, black or blue jeans, a pair of chunky sunglasses (I like the ones that cover half my face), black trainers or sandals and a nice watch.
What would you never wear?
I work as a part-time model too, but have sworn never to wear a turban with a sherwani, even if I’m paid for it. I’m all about a well-tailored sherwani, but you’ll never see me wearing a kulla and posing as a dulha.
If you could only wear one designer for the rest of your life, who would it be?
Locally, it has to be Hamza Bokhari.. He makes the most breathtaking clothes and I’m the biggest fan of his designs. I admire his fresh and modern take on menswear. Internationally, I loved Givenchy under Clare Waight Keller. Currently, I’m obsessed with Balmain, Vetements, Prada and Ralph Lauren.
Which trends are you most excited about right now?
Love how silhouettes are becoming baggier. I’m not fond of fitted garments, so solid colours and lose cuts always excite me. Also, when it comes to Pakistani fashion I love that shararas and khari shalwars are making a comeback.
What is one no-fail styling trick you have?Â
Less is more. Sounds unoriginal, but I always like making a big impact by doing as little as I can. Overdoing a look is very easy, I think. It’s nailing the right amount that takes effort, experience and an eye. I’m also a staunch believer in comfort over all else. Even if a look doesn’t seem aesthetically pleasing, if the person wearing it is comfortable and confident in it, it’s good enough.
What are some fashion mistakes to avoid?
There are plenty, but wearing a choli the length and fit of a t-shirt and overdoing lawn outfits top my list. Also, can we please get rid of cakey makeup? Embrace the skin you’re in, drink lots of water and take care of it.
When dapper meets all things summer! Give it up for 9Lines’ quirky, colourful yet super trendy menswear SS’20 collection. These outfits will take you through a refreshingly fashionable ride. With a mix of tasteful floral, feisty animal prints and graphic stripes, this collection is the perfect way to introduce a bit of colour and pattern into your wardrobe
You want to scare a Pakistani man? Say the magic word: feminism.
Over the years, this innocuous word that stands for the equality of all human beings has been equated with moral depravity and the decline of society. We see this more prominently in patriarchal societies, where women rising up to demand their rights is seen as vulgar, propagandist and even calamitous (women in jeans are the reason why earthquakes happen right?).
However, I’m not here to reiterate common knowledge. It is not news anymore that the word feminism and its basic meaning has been turned into something filthy—a plague that all ‘good’ women should avoid. We all know that we live in a society entrenched in myopic views and we are all aware of the slew of hatred and abuse that women receive on a daily basis. Whether they’re organising the Aurat March, or reporting harassment at the workplace, their demands are contorted and twisted. In the case of sexual crimes, the victim, mostly the female, is slut-shamed and victim-blamed. This isn’t the worst of it though—the worst are the supposed allies, the performative woke men and the ones with who carry the mantle of #notallmen.
Barely a second after a woman, fed up of the system that’s continuously stacked against her, decides to voice her opinion of men, relay an incident that she’s experienced or bash a man for his atrocious behaviour, a barrage of #notallmen is offered up. This is where the problem lies. Cisgender, masculine men are the most privileged of our society, yet are immediately threatened when someone exposes one of their lot. They run to defend the entire group of them, but for what? Many it seems, want to provide hope for the victims; that there is a world of decent people out there. But, how does this help a person who’s been through the worst at the hands of a man? What men should be doing is stop feeling so insecure and own up to the gross failings of other cisgender men; they should hold them accountable and actively encourage a relearning of their behaviour towards women. Sadly, the majority of the #notallmen crowd is a long way from that sort of reformation.
I, therefore, would like to focus more on the ones who are woke because it’s cool, the performative allies, whose allyship remains on the surface at best. Additionally, there are many who label themselves as feminists, but are always looking towards others to guide them along. So if your feminism as a man is a bit suspect, here’s a refresher on how to fix it, in no particular order (I’d like to thank writer, comedienne and radio jockey Sabah Bano Malik for her input):
- Educate Yourself: the burden to explain what feminism is about, the problems women face and the road to a reformed society isn’t on the affected party. Don’t expect them to sit you down and expend emotional labour to explain to you what you need to be doing. Do a simple Google search. There are plenty of resources out there that will inform you of the issues at hand.
- Listen: when women are talking, it is imperative that you listen to them without judgement. Believe them when they tell you about their problems or the abuse they’ve experienced and then listen to them when they tell you what needs to be fixed. Do not, for the love of God, try to minimise their trauma or lived reality and do not offer any other variation of #notallmen.
- Use your Privilege: It’s not enough to simply show up to feminist rallies and tweet your opinion on the matter, feminism starts from home. Look around you, see what’s happening with domestic staff and their rights, see if you’re being given extra love due to being a son, observe your friends and call out their misogynist behaviour and educate them. If you can’t use your privilege to create opportunities and a safe environment for the oppressed, then your feminism is futile.
- Follow their Lead: Never mansplain. If you think you’re in fact more informed or educated about a certain topic, then find a courteous way to highlight that. Do not talk down to women when they’re discussing solutions to problems they face. If they say x is a problem, then it is a problem—even if you weren’t previously aware of it. Let the ones affected by the patriarchy define what change they want to see.
- You’re Not Always Required: There will be times when a feminist discussion or forum will be held where you, even a well-meaning individual, will be excluded because you’re not a woman. Do not complain, do not fuss and remember: it’s not about you. Women need spaces where they can feel safe. So don’t impose on such gatherings.
A few other things to keep in mind are:
l              Do not expect a badge or medal for your efforts, or even a reward
l              Be intersectional in your feminism (look it up)
l              Being a feminist to get a girl’s attention makes you the opposite
l              It’s not about you
l              Constantly analyse your own behaviour
I spoke to friend, journalist and fashion stylist Haiya Bokhari and she stated that the first thing men should do is to learn empathy. She says, “It’s difficult to empathise with anyone else if you’re suppressing your own emotions. Before men can embark on a journey of becoming allies, they must be able to look inside and have difficult conversations with themselves.†This is incredibly true. Men need to realise that the patriarchy is also damaging to us and our own development. Learning to be in touch with our own emotions isn’t weakness; toxic masculinity and fragile egos must go.
And as Sabah said to me, “Acknowledge that a divide exists, acknowledge that the world is different for women and girls and non cisgendered males. Acknowledge your privilege and don’t make excuses.â€
Because the fact of the matter is, till the patriarchy survives and cisgendered men reap its benefits: #yesallmen
One of our favourite lifestyle photographers, Areesh Zubair, speaks to Mehek Raza Rizvi about his popular new “Duur se Portrait†series launched to document life in the Covid-19 lockdown and how he kept his creativity alive during this time
What inspired the “Duur Se Portrait†series?
I wanted to document people during the lockdown; it all started when a prominent photo-journalist proclaimed on his Insta live that it’s very important for photographers to document this time, as this period will be remembered in the annals of history. I realised that we as photographers have a duty upon ourselves to archive it. My initial plan was to go out on the streets and photograph the general day-to-day life during the lockdown, however, I came across quite a few talented people that were already doing a great job of it. Hence, I thought I’d do something a bit more unique, so I came up with the idea of photographing people on their balconies. Initially I was only going to photograph my friends and family but now with time it’s morphed into something much bigger than I could’ve ever imagined.
After capturing people dressed up on their balconies, have you considered doing another series focusing on their more natural/realistic quarantine moods?
The idea behind the project was never to photograph folks who were all dressed up, I just wanted to photograph people in whatever way they were most comfortable. Surprisingly, the series kind of gave people a reason to get up and ready for a change, especially during the early days when the lockdown was quite strict. I seldom give people a brief or reference points—I just simply ask them to come outside on their respective balconies in whichever way they’re most comfortable and from there onwards I photograph them.
In order to continue the series, o ne thing I’m certain of is that I’m looking to photograph people from more diverse backgrounds, certainly outside my friends, family and industry circles.
How do you see the creative industry altering during Covid-19?
Covid-19 isn’t going anywhere anytime soon—that’s a given. Our industry, like all others, needs to adapt to the current situation by developing SOPs and working with them. This is the best time to improvise and be as creative as possible. We have access to some of the best technology at our fingertips; I’ve seen some brilliant shoots done via Facetime. It’s time to use our cell phone cameras more appropriately. I believe we need to make the most out of what we already have, as art created under limited circumstances is always special.
Has the current global uncertainty had an impact on your aesthetic and vision as a photographer?
Obviously! Like any other person it has had a serious impact on my work. Before this series, I didn’t really have much experience working with zoom lenses. Truth be told I don’t even have my own zoom lenses; it wasn’t exactly my style. But the lockdown compelled me to use them. For the project I borrowed the zoom lenses from my friends and colleagues. I’ll definitely be investing in my very own pair soon.
For most people, having a creative outlet is more important than ever now. We know you’ve conducted online classes in the past, so can we expect more in the future to help anyone seeking guidance free of cost?
Definitely! Having a creative outlet or any outlet for that matter is very important during these days. I did one photography workshop in the early days of the lockdown—it was free of cost. I’m always open to the idea of sharing and guiding as much as I can and now that you’ve asked I think it’s time for another workshop.
Other than that, I’m always available to offer my guidance or answer any photography related questions; my DMs are always open.
Have you discovered any other secret talents of yourself in quarantine?
That I am really bad at Ludo Star!
What’s something you’ve learnt from this crisis that you hope to keep with you long after it’s over?
That nothing can stop you from doing something that you really want. You just need to make sure that you’re doing it the correct way. The excuses we make every day are honestly speaking just lame. I just had an idea to start with—I didn’t even have the right equipment to get it off the ground. But look where it’s gotten me. I can’t complain.
We need to work together more, collaborate, help one another and find positivity in every possible situation.
Brand: Mohtaram
Photography: Nusair Rahman
Models: Arsalan Ihsan & Abeer Asad Khan
Hair & Makeup: Toni & Guy North
Styling: Aarinda Noor
Concept: Fahad Saif
Saba Qamar has become a force to be reckoned with in the entertainment industry. Through her poignant performances, she’s captured the hearts of millions and continues to be a voice for downtrodden women everywhere. Mehek Raza Rizvi speaks to the reigning queen about her upcoming projects and how she’s spending time in lockdown
“Fortunately, criticism has never been a source of fear for me. I enjoy criticism as much as I enjoy appreciationâ€
Through the characters you portray on screen and the content of your recent YouTube channel, you echo the sentiments of many women. How important a part can female role models like yourself play in making the world a kinder place?
I believe that I’ve been blessed with the utmost responsibility of influencing. As an actor I hold the power of breathing life into stories; the characters I play not only leave a mark on screen, but they also leave a mark on the audience. Thus, it’s extremely important for me to carefully choose the message I’d want to convey to my audience and how I’d want to impact their lives. Playing my role in making this world a kinder, safer and better place is a priority for me.
Do you feel gender portrayal in Pakistani media has seen a shift in recent years?
I do believe that as an industry we’re breaking free from the world of gender stereotyping. The ethical value of the work I’m creating is far more important than any monetary value and I believe that’s what makes me stand where I do today. Ending gender stereotyping on screen is a cause close to my heart and I pray to continue working towards this cause.
Unlike most actors, even the biggest critics would find it challenging to typecast you due to your versatile body of work. Has this been a conscious effort from your end?
Definitely! There’s nothing that excites me more than a challenging and out-of-the-box script. That’s what keeps me going as an actor: the hope that I’ll get to live a new character every morning. I’ve grown both individually and professionally through the characters I’ve chosen to play over the years.
What led you to explore YouTube as a platform? Is digital media the way forward for mainstream actors too?
My underlying passion for writing and direction led me to explore YouTube as a channel. I’ve found it to be a medium which enables me to communicate with my audience through my creativity, and most importantly, my originality. People are finally getting to know Saba Qamar up close. I do believe that exploring digital media is integral in the world we live in today.
Your video titled “Isolationâ€, the first episode on your YouTube channel, resonated with many on  a personal level. How’re you dealing with these strange times?
This has been a period of reflection for me—these challenging circumstances have drawn me closer to myself and God. I took this time as an opportunity to reflect on all that I’ve neglected and to pay attention to the smaller things in life. I find myself to be healing as a creative and exploring new strengths every day.
“There’s nothing that excites me more than a challenging and out-of-the-box script. That’s what keeps me going as an actor: the hope that I’ll get to live a new character every morningâ€
Most people are keeping busy by exploring new talents—from cooking to painting and writing. What does a typical day in quarantine look like for you?
The talent I not only explored but revealed, was the talent of writing along with the talent of direction. A typical day in quarantine is filled with the warmth and presence of my family, far away from the noise of the world, where my soul and body heals from all the exhaustion, where I find time for my creativity, where I work and hold Zoom meetings with my team, where we keep each other motivated with new ideas.
While most fans find your sincere, unfiltered and genuine spirit refreshing, there are certain disapproving parties that can subject you to criticism. Is that ever a fear?
Fortunately, criticism has never been a source of fear for me. I enjoy criticism as much as I enjoy appreciation.
You’ve been part of the industry since 2004, experiencing countless highs along the way. What’re the biggest lessons you’ve learnt?
To stay consistent and persistent despite all odds and setbacks. It’s also extremely important to stay positive and take everything in a positive manner.
Tell us about your upcoming films “Kamliâ€Â and “Ghabrana nai haiâ€.
The characters I’ve played in both the films are poles apart from each other. In one my role is quiet and calm, whereas in the other I’m overly enthusiastic and vibrant. I can’t wait for the audience to watch both the films.
How would you like Saba Qamar to be remembered?
I’d want to be remembered as someone who was more than just a good actress. I’d want people to remember me for my soul, heart and faith—for the positive change I’ve tried to bring in this world through my work.
SHORT & SWEET
What’s the first thing you’ll do once this global pandemic is over?
Get on the next flight and explore a country I’ve never been to before.
What’s something you’re surprised you don’t miss in quarantine?
Going to the gym and working out.
What’re some things you’ve come to realise aren’t as necessary as you thought earlier?
My YouTube video ‘Isolation’ is an in-depth response to this question.
If you could only eat one thing in quarantine, what would it be?
Fruit
If you could only use one app during this time, which one would it be?
Are you guilty of panic buying?
No
Are you an early riser or night owl?
Night owl
Texts or phone calls?
Phone calls
Do you have a nickname?
My sister calls me ‘Sabi’, my elder brother calls me ‘Bubniya’ and my best friend calls me ‘SQ’
Out of all the characters you’ve played, which one do you relate to most?
Mashal in ‘Besharam’
A dialogue from one of your projects that describes you best?
‘Kabhi Kabhi Kadion Ko Apnay Kaid Khanay say Mohabbat ho jati hai. Mujhay Bhi Ho Gayi Hai’ (Sometimes prisoners fall in love with their prison; I too have fallen in love with mine)
Your favourite performance of yourself so far?
‘Baaghi’
Photography: Rizwan Baig; MUA: Shoaib Khan; Stylist: Zahra Sarfraz; PR & Coordination: Meshal Cheema
Pakistani couturier Nauman Arfeen has preferred to stay away from the spotlight and always let his work speak for itself. Last year, he garnered worldwide recognition for crafting a timeless teal sherwani for Prince William during his visit to Pakistan. Haider Rifaat was in conversation with him about his thoughts on the fashion industry, dressing royalty and more
You’ve created something special with your label ‘Naushemian’ that resonates with a lot of people. To what do you attribute your success?
It’s been a blessing and the result of the boundless support I’ve received fromthose around me. I was more interested in the field of medicine, but my father wanted someone to look after ‘Hat Villa’, his millinery business. I was the youngest in my family, so my father expected me to assume this role. It was a struggle for sure, but I was able to persevere and it culiminated in the launch of ‘Naushemian’. My first fashion show, Fashion Pakistan Week, was in 2009 where I presented my collection ‘Raven’; this was a turning point in my career. The designing of shoes followed and the rest, as they say, is history.
What drew you to fashion in the first place?
There was always a gap—a missing piece in men’s fashion that needed to be addressed. When I heard that Fashion Pakistan was on the lookout for new talent, I registered for a slot. Presenting my first collection was daunting, but I credit Rizwan Beyg and Raheel Rao, as their their critique and encouragement led me to be lauded on the ramp.
I recall making turbans for almost every label in the mid and late 90s. They ranged from Aitchison College turbans to traditional Rajasthani ones, so thinking about eastern wear all the time inspired me to launch ‘Naushemian’, which essentially translates to ‘bridegroom’ in Urdu.
What is a core component of your fashion ethos?
My embroidery and craftsmanship; they make me a different designer. Men’s sherwanis are my forte, but I have also ventured into womenswear and men’s western formal wear.
Have you ever experienced a creative block?Â
I don’t believe true artists face creative blocks. Creativity is innate and inspiration can be found from myriad sources. I’m inspired by nature, the world around me and the people I meet.
Why has Pakistan’s fashion fraternity not been inclusive of all shapes and sizes?Â
Maybe designers find it a hassle to cater to mass crowds and designing for a range of sizes. Not everyone can think on a macro scale. For me, fashion is for the masses. I don’t understand why garments are designed for a specific size or body type. I’m everyone’s designer. If you visit my atelier, I have four sizes that range from small to extra-large. I drive satisfaction from providing people with custom-made products that they want to wear.
What’re your thoughts on sacrificing personal creativity over trends?Â
Fashion changes by the minute; it’s about how you perceive an attire and make it your own. Fashion is what makes you feel attractive and confident. So I believe it’s silly to follow trends. Sadly, many contemporary designers are working strenuously to follow trends, rather than creating them. True fashion should be that which is a true reflection of onself.
How is androgynous wear changing the way we look at style?Â
Style is something we are comfortable and confident in carrying. Androgynous wear is harder for men to swallow than women. Then again, if you’re confident, you’re stylish.
What’ve you planned so far for the summer and fall 2020 collections?Â
Our entire team is working to devise a collection. I have matching separates and soft pastel colours in mind for the summer season. They can work well for Eid festivities too. We’ll surely come out with dark, vibrant colors for this fall.
What’s a more creative substitute this season for overdone floral prints?Â
Checks and stripes
Who do you cite as your fashion icons?
Tom Ford—I admire how he made a name for himself in fashion after having studied architecture. After finding success with Gucci, he went on to give the world one of the best brands there is.
What draws you to his work ethic?Â
I met Tom once. His products are well thought out, beautifully designed and incredibly practical. These factors attract millions of people towards him, me included; I even love his fragrances. He is an all-rounder.
Last year, you were the only male couturier from Pakistan to have designed for HRH Prince William while he toured the country. The teal-coloured sherwani was stellar. How were you approached for this and why did you specifically choose the colour teal?Â
I’ve been stocking in London for a decade now. The royal team reached out for my designs there, got my contact details and closely reviewed my credibility. As you may know, royal managers handle things with precision. They initially required a classic blue sherwani with green buttons. I designed according to their demands and had an extra sherwani as an option as well, which they loved.
They strictly scrutinised my design and made sure no calligraphy was embroidered on the piece. On complete satisfaction, they opted for my garment for His Highness. It was my personal vision to see the prince in teal for the occasion. Teal is an upcoming hue in fashion. The colour sends out a message of solidarity and peace.
What went through your mind when you saw HRH Prince William wearing your label?
It was a memorable moment for me as a Pakistani designer. I was honored to be selected as the only male couturier from my country to create a garment for the future king of England. This was the first time he’d worn another country’s traditional attire on tour and that was a tremendous feeling in itself. He overshadowed Duchess Kate on that day, if I may say so. That sherwani will remain a timeless piece for decades to come.
Did this achievement garner your label immense recognition across Pakistan and the world?Â
Yes—not only this but an attire that had lost its identity globally returned ferociously as a new trend in fashion. Those who consider it a long buttoned jacket now know very well that it is a traditional sherwani.
Of all the public figures you have dressed, who has been the most special?
Although I’ve designed for many dignitaries, I believe that every client we cater to is a prince and princess. They are all not just my clients, but my family. I’ve witnessed happy tears in the eyes of mothers when they saw their sons wearing the complete ensemble at my stores. Such moments often humble you.
Who has mentored you in your craft?Â
Time and experience have been my best mentors. I learn in my everyday life. I don’t follow people in our industry, because they’ve hardly guided me. Learning from time to time, however, has given me the confidence to reflect on what I’ve accomplished so far.
What important lessons has your profession taught you?
Many—the best would be to never show your cards. Showing off is a fool’s idea of glory so if you’ve noticed,m not a fan of sharing my ideas.